Gardening for Amateurs 



1029 



suffer from want of water, particularly 

 when in bloom and after the fruits have 

 formed. Except when the flowers are open 

 and the fruits are changing colour, the atmo- 

 sphere must be fairly moist, otherwise the 

 plants are liable to attack by red spider. 

 When the fruits are swelling, guano, 1 ounce 

 in 1 gallon of water, forms an excellent liquid 

 manure, and may be given twice or three 

 times a week. 



Strawberries in a Frame. An excellent and 

 cheap method of forcing the fruits, so that 

 they are ripe from the middle of April to the 

 end of May, is by planting in a frame. Finer 

 fruits and heavier crops can be obtained in 

 this w r ay at that season than by growing 

 plants in pots. The frame should be got 

 ready for planting at the end of August or 

 early in September, soil similar to that ad- 

 vised for potting being used ; the border 

 need not be more than 10 inches deep. 

 Put the plants 12 inches apart and make 

 them quite firm. They are prepared in the 

 same way as detailed for those grown in 

 pots. It is an advantage if the frame is 

 heated by hot water, but if it is not some 

 increased warmth can be provided by closing 

 the frame early in the afternoon. The plants 

 must be kept quite cool until the fruits are 

 formed, and while they are in bloom air 

 must be freely admitted unless the weather 

 is cold. 



. Royal Sovereign is still the favourite 

 variety for growing in pots, and amateurs 

 are advised to rely upon this. 



Vine. The cultivation of the Grape Vine 

 appeals strongly to many amateurs. Thus 

 we find it grown in all sorts and sizes of 

 greenhouses, heated and unheated. Some 

 endeavour to grow Grapes, ferns and flower- 

 ing plants in the same glasshouse. Although 

 a fair measure of success may attend this 

 method, it is not recommended if first-class 

 Grapes are required. The chief drawback is 

 that the greenhouse must be kept moderately 

 warm in winter on account of the plants in 

 pots, when for the sake of the Vine it ought 

 to be freely ventilated. 



The best position for an early vinery is 

 against a wall facing south. The wall gives 

 shelter and the southern aspect ensures the 

 maximum of light and natural warmth. The 

 back wall ought to be not less than 10 or 12 



feet high, thus enabling the builder to secure 

 a steep pitch to the roof, which is an advan- 

 tage, especially in winter. Vineries may be 

 built of any width and length desired, but 

 for early forcing it is not advisable to have 

 them too large. For mid-season and late 

 summer Grapes the span-roofed house run- 

 ning north and south is best, as it ensures 

 to the Vines i\\\\ light and sunshine. In 

 warm weather Vines can scarcely have too 

 much air, so that means for free ventilation 

 at both top and bottom of the vinery must 

 be provided. 



The most satisfactory method of heating 

 the vinery is by means of a boiler and hot- 

 water pipes, one of the improved forms of 

 saddle boiler being usually very satisfactory. 

 Four -inch pipes are the best, and it is wise 

 to have enough of them to maintain the 

 necessary warmth without undue heating. 



The Border. Success in growing Grapes 

 under glass depends very largely upon the 

 proper preparation of the border ; this 

 should be 3 feet deep, and properly drained. 

 A few 4 -inch pipes laid end to end down 

 the middle of the border, having a very 

 slight fall, and connecting with an outlet, 

 are usually sufficient, but 3-inch pipes laid 

 across the border at 4 feet apart and emptying 

 into the main drain are often added. Cover 

 the bottom of the border between and over 

 the pipes with broken bricks to the depth of 

 6 inches, and on top of this lay turves, grass 

 side downwards. It is only when the sub- 

 soil is heavy and clayey that drains need 

 be laid ; usually the drainage material is 

 enough. The object of the grower should be 

 to secure short-jointed moderate-sized shoots 

 in preference to long -jointed thick ones, 

 therefore no rich organic manure is added 

 to the compost. This is best mixed as 

 follows : To one cartload of old chopped turf 

 (get the best that can be had, for a Vine 

 border lasts for many years), add 3 

 barrow-loads of broken brick, 2 of old 

 mortar rubble, some J-inch bones, a sprink- 

 ling of bone-meal, 1 bushel of lime, and the 

 same of soot. Mix all well together and you 

 have a perfect Vine soil. It is a mistake to 

 make up a large border. Rather plant in 

 a narrow border in the first place a width 

 of 3 feet is sufficient for two years. Then 

 widen the border another 2 feet, and so on 



