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Gardening for Amateurs 



Sowing Seed. Presuming that the land 

 has been deeply dug in autumn or early 

 winter and the surface left rough, prepare 

 a small part of it for sowing seeds of Early 

 Carrots at the end of February. The posi- 

 tion should be a warm one. Fork over the 

 surface, afterwards raking it over to clear 

 away stones, etc. Next draw the drills 1 

 inch to 2 inches deep and 9 inches apart. 

 Carrot seeds stick together, and if not separ- 

 ated many of them are wasted and the 

 young plants come up in bunches instead 

 of singly. The seed should first be rubbed 

 in dry sand, then sown thinly and raked 



over, finally pressing the soil firmly down. 

 The Carrots from this sowing should not be 

 thinned until they are of a serviceable size, 

 when they may be pulled as wanted. Keep 

 the ground clean by frequent hoeing. 



To have a succession of young Carrots, 

 sow a small quantity of seed once a month 

 until the middle of July. The last should 

 be a larger sowing, as the resulting roots 

 will last through the winter. 



The main crop of long-rooted Carrots 

 should be sown the second week in March, 

 in drills 12 inches apart, the plants being 

 thinned early to 6 inches, or, if large roots 

 are required, to 9 inches apart 



Storing for Winter. Carrots are best 

 stored in moderately dry sand in a cold shed 

 (first cutting off the tops, of course), or they 

 may be clamped out in the open, or remain 

 in the ground and be dug up as wanted. 



Spring Carrot. Anyone possessing a cold 

 frame and a supply of littery straw and 

 fresh leaves may enjoy fresh Carrots early 

 in spring. In January make up a heap of 

 this material, 3 feet high and 2 feet wider 

 than the frame placed upon it, tread firmly, 

 and cover with 6 inches of fine soil and sow 

 the seed broadcast in ten days' time. Give a 

 little air on fine days, and cover the frame 

 with mats on 

 very cold nights 

 to protect from 

 frost. Sow 



Radishes amongst 

 the Carrots. 

 These will mature 

 and be ready for 

 pulling long be- 

 fore the Carrots. 

 The latter should 

 be slightly thinned 

 when quite small, 

 subsequent thin- 

 ning being de- 

 ferred until the 

 roots are large 

 enough to use. 



For a very early 

 crop, and for late 

 sowings also, 

 Parisian Forcing 

 Horn is one of 

 the best. The 



Xew Intermediate is the best for main crop 

 as well as for exhibition. Long Surrey is 

 still a favourite with many. 



Cauliflower. The Cauliflower needs no 

 description or commendation ; it is known 

 and appreciated by all. It differs from 

 Broccoli only in being more tender and of 

 better quality ; it will not withstand much 

 frost, whereas Broccoli will do so. Cauli- 

 flowers are in season from May to Decem- 

 ber. Broccoli from autumn to May and June. 

 To grow Cauliflowers really well the ground 

 must be prepared by deep digging and 

 manuring the previous autumn or winter. 

 For a spring and early summer supply of 



The leaves are tied 

 before Celery is 

 earthed up. 



