ROSES 71 



species. During recent years it has been extensively used by some 

 nurserymen for making standard or tree Roses, as well as weeping 

 standards. It is claimed for it that it will, owing to the fibrous char- 

 acter of its roots, transplant better than the ordinary Briar, and, owing 

 to its comparatively shallow rooting, does better than the Briar stock 

 on light or sandy soil. 



As the best bush Roses can be obtained from the leading growers 

 from ninepence to one shilling each, probably it would not pay the 

 beginner to bud his own Roses. Later on, however, he may wish to do 

 so. As the cuttings are inserted in September at the same time as those 

 of cultivated Roses the method is described under the heading of propaga- 

 tion by cuttings (p. 77), and as for the seedling briars it is not worth the 

 trouble involved for the amateur to attempt to raise them, when they can 

 be bought so cheaply. Stocks planted for budding should be secured in 

 the autumn, the roots put into some soil temporarily, and protected from 

 frost until February. When planted before this, hard frost is liable to 

 raise the plants out of the ground. Plant them in rows 2 feet apart in 

 the best position, and the stocks 8 inches apart. If they are to remain 

 permanently where planted, and this plan is strongly advised, more 

 space should be given between the plants, say 12 inches. Dwarf stocks 

 must be planted rather shallow, their roots being about 6 inches below 

 the surface. When about to bud the stocks hoe the soil away, so that 

 the root stem is accessible. 



Standard briars may be bought from labourers for one shilling to 

 one shilling and sixpence per dozen, but do not buy them unless they 

 have some small fibrous roots, and see that they are not green and 

 sappy. Plant these briars in November in rows 3 feet apart and 12 inches 

 asunder in the rows, and their roots about 8 inches deep. All stocks 

 should be grown in good soil, and hoe frequently and deeply. Thin 

 the growth of standard stocks in June, retaining three of the best to 

 receive the buds. 



Pruning. When pruning Roses the first thing is to determine 

 whether the object in view is to obtain Roses for exhibition or Roses 

 for the decoration of the garden, because the pruning that would be 

 suitable in the one case would be unsuitable in the other. The following 

 notes and illustrations refer to the pruning of Roses for the garden, and 

 not for the purpose of securing blooms for exhibition. The exhibitor 

 who wants the very best blooms he can get, even if he has a small number 

 on each plant, prunes his Rose trees much harder than the man who 

 prefers to have more blooms or poorer quality, although they may be 

 beautiful in the garden and valuable for cut flowers. Naturally, the 

 farther back one cuts the shoots the fewer buds there will be to burst 

 into growth and the stronger the resulting shoots will be. The Rose 

 grower who does not care to sacrifice quantity for the sake of a finer 

 quality prunes more lightly ; that is to say, he leaves the shoots longer, 

 with the result that they produce more shoots, though they may be less 

 vigorous and bear flowers that from the point of view of the exhibitor 

 may be wanting in size and form. Some of the stronger-growing Hybrid 



