74 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



endeavour to have as many one-year-old shoots in his climbers as possible, 

 as there should not, as a rule, be any shoots more than three years old* 

 This, of course, cannot be laid down as a hard and fast rule, but it serves 

 to show the value of having as many young shoots as possible and the 

 disadvantage of having old ones. The latter only produce flowers on 

 the lateral or side growths that have formed on the main stem. In 

 March these side shoots are cut back to within two or three buds of the 

 base, so as to induce the formation of flowering shoots as strong as 

 possible. The shoots made last year produce flowering shoots from 

 almost every bud ; it will thus be apparent what a far better display 

 of bloom the one-year-old shoots give, as they flower from the main 

 stem itself, while the older shoots are able to bear bloom only from 

 laterals, not from the main stem. Many of the strong-growing climbing 

 Roses produce stout shoots from the base of the plant every year, but 

 some do not, and in order to encourage them to do so it may be neces- 

 sary to cut back to within, say, 6 inches of the ground in March one at 

 least of the strong shoots. Roses such as Crimson Rambler, Reine Olga 

 de Wurtemburg, Dorothy Perkins, and some others need no such assist- 

 ance to enable them to send up strong young shoots from near the 

 ground level, but they are not all so free as these, and when it becomes 

 necessary a shoot must be cut back, otherwise the base of the plant will 

 get bare, and nothing looks much worse than a climbing Rose with 

 flowers and leaves on the top and bare unsightly stems below. 



Watering and Syringing. Instead of using so much patent manure 

 use the hoe more frequently, and keep 3 inches or 4 inches of the surface 

 soil loose. This considerably counteracts drought ; it allows the air to 

 penetrate the soil, and admits the warm rays of the sun. Always hoe 

 after rain, at each artificial watering, and use the syringe freely to cleanse 

 the foliage. When the garden is near a large town sponge the foliage 

 now and then, but avoid wetting the leaves during bright sunshine. 

 Syringe early in the morning, before seven o'clock. The city man as 

 well as the artisan will find the work among Roses a delightful occupa- 

 tion, especially before breakfast. When hoeing is constantly practised 

 Roses will not as a rule require artificial watering before the flower-buds 

 appear, except in very dry springs, and then water only newly-planted 

 kinds. It is when foliage is ample and almost fully expanded that the 

 roots take up most moisture. The best time to water is the end of May 

 and early in June ; if dry, give a thorough good soaking with plain soft 

 water about twice a week. The plants also appreciate gentle syringing 

 in the evening of a hot day. Mildew often results through unseasonable 

 waterings and overdoses of artificial manures, which burn the tiny 

 rootlets. A dressing of lime and soot soon after pruning is helpful ; 

 indeed, both soot and lime are not sufficiently used. 



Manures. Roses are not gross feeders, but they like good food. 

 Phosphates are very important to promote abundant flowering. Bone- 

 meal, which is so rich in phosphate, is an excellent fertiliser, a light 

 sprinkling in March being very useful and lasting. Night-soil is excel- 

 lent, but must be applied with care. Make a drill at the end of May 



