ROSES 75 



down the middle of the rows, as though one were about to sow beans. 

 Pour the night-soil into the drill and return the earth. The rains will 

 wash the fertiliser to the roots. Never give liquid manure in dry 

 weather unless plain water has been previously applied. An excellent 

 manure is known as Tonk's, and should be applied early in February. 

 Hoe the ground, then sprinkle all over the soil at the rate of Ib. to 

 the square yard. The recipe is as follows : 



Parts. 



Superphosphate of lime 12 



Nitrate of potash 10 



Sulphate of magnesia 2 



Sulphate of iron . . . . . . .1 



Sulphate of lime 8 



Liquid manure can be easily made by setting up a paraffin cask in 

 an out-of-the-way corner. Put a bushel of fresh cow manure into a bag, 

 tie the end up loosely, and put the bag into the cask, which should then 

 be filled with water. Give this liquid in equal proportions, and change 

 the manure every ten days or so. If sheep droppings are procurable, 

 put some in the tub in addition. Ichthemic, or fish guano, is a splendid 

 stimulant for Roses. Do not give liquid manure to weakly plants, only 

 to those in full vigour. It must not be given too early, but wait until 

 the flower-buds can be just seen or felt at the points of the shoots, or 

 gross, green-centred flowers will result. When the buds are seen, an 

 application of manure water twice a week may be given. Withhold 

 liquid manure when the flowers show colour. After first flowering a few 

 doses are beneficial to such Roses as bloom a second time. Manure 

 water may be given to Roses in winter to their great advantage. 



Mulching the surface during June and July is important. A good 

 material is peat moss litter from a good stable. Wakeley's hop manure 

 is also valuable. Hoe the surface deeply before applying it, then lay on 

 about 2 or 3 inches. 



Thinning and Disbudding. Pruning should be supplemented by 

 thinning the young shoots in May. Remove all that appear to crowd 

 the centre of the plant. If one growth carries three or four young 

 shoots at its end this will suffice. Growths may be entirely removed in 

 May when they appear too crowded. If variety is wanted, as well as 

 quality, put the plants closer, and retain not more than two of the best 

 growths of the previous summer. Disbudding usually applies to the 

 reduction of the number of flower-buds. Where show blooms are 

 required remove the side buds and retain the centre one, which, if faulty, 

 must be removed, and the best of the side buds retained. (See illustra- 

 tions.) Pinch off all new growths as they spring out of the shoot that is 

 crowned with the flower-bud. Tea Roses require this if show blooms are 

 desired, but for garden decoration leave them alone. Plenty of growth 

 means plenty of flowers. 



Budding. This operation as well as many another in garden craft 

 is very simple when the art has been acquired. Fig. 8 represents 

 a piece of Rose growth. At the base of each leaf-stalk is an eye, or 



