78 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



shed. When all are made they should be planted. Take out a trench 

 of the prepared bed one foot wide, and the depth of a spade. Cut down 

 a wall of soil as perpendicular as possible. At the bottom of this wall of 

 soil put an inch of sand or old cocoanut fibre, then stand the end of the 

 cutting on the sand, and lean them against the wall of soil, the cuttings 

 being about i inches apart or more, if there be plenty of room (see 

 illustrations). Many prefer to dibble the cuttings in with a dibbler, which 

 is often disastrous, as the cuttings hang, i.e. do not touch the bottom of 

 the hole. It is much better to dig the ground as advised. When the row 

 is completed, gently place half the soil to the cuttings, then tread firmly 

 with the foot, the remainder of soil being returned and made firm. The 

 cuttings should not be out of the ground more than an inch, but this is not 

 material so long as they are in the ground to a depth of 5 inches. When 

 the row is completed, more ground is dug, and another row commenced 

 about 12 inches from the first. After a hard frost the cuttings are often 

 by its action raised out of the ground and left hanging. As soon as frost 

 has gone, go over the cuttings, and push them down. It may be neces- 

 sary to do this two or three times, but if neglected for long, success cannot 

 be expected. Subsequent treatment consists in keeping the surface soil 

 loose for about 2 inches, and in the following spring twelvemonths, 

 that is about eighteen months after planting, the cuttings should be 

 transplanted to their permanent position. When doing this, place a 

 little very fine soil near the roots, which are so fine that in heavy soil 

 they do not start properly. The majority of Roses will strike readily 

 from cuttings, but will not all be in fit condition at one time. Do not 

 attempt to strike any from the first lot of plants, for the wood you would 

 use is of great value the second season for flowers. Plants three years 

 old will provide plenty of useful cuttings. There are other ways of 

 making Rose cuttings, the next best to the above being from the growths 

 of pot-grown plants in March or April. If a variety is scarce, one eye 

 or leaf-bud is cut off and stuck, with leaf attached, round the side of a 

 3^-inch pot of sandy soil. A cutting with two eyes and both leaves 

 attached, however, is preferable, but remove the end leaflet, and plunge 

 the pot in cocoanut fibre in a cucumber or melon frame. Place a small 

 bell glass over the pot of cuttings, and freely sprinkle the foliage. It is 

 most important to well preserve the foliage, and, of course, when inserted 

 the cutting should be clean and free from insect pests. 



Protecting Rose Blooms. Even the beginner, if he grows a fine Rose, 

 wishes it to last as long as possible, and develop to its utmost beauty. 

 With some of the Tea and light-coloured Roses, shading of the flowers 

 is necessary. Zulu straw hats fastened on sticks are as good as anything, 

 or a frame of wire can be made cheaply to support a piece of calico. 

 Even a flat piece of board tacked on a stake will keep a flower clean, 

 and not exclude the air. High-coloured Roses should not be shaded. 



Treatment after First Flowering. Go over the plants that are 

 autumn flowering, remove any crowded growths, and those that have 

 flowered, unless the flower has been cut with a fairly long stalk, should 

 be cut back a few inches to a dormant leaf-bud looking outward. A 



