ROSES 85 



one-year-old cow manure ; and a 6-inch potful of bone-meal to a barrow- 

 ful of the prepared soil. When about to pot, turn out the plant, lay 

 the ball on its side, and remove the crocks. Then with a pointed 

 stick gently prise up the surface of the ball. This releases the roots, 

 and some of the soil at the same time. Then take the mass in both 

 hands, and shake gently. Place it carefully in the centre of the pot, 

 and fill up with compost, ramming this hard in. The pots must not 

 be filled too full, merely to the rim. Place the plants on a bed of ashes 

 when potted, and keep them here until wanted, unless frosts or heavy 

 rains intervene. 



Pillar Roses. For many varieties of Roses the columnar, or pillar 

 form, is the most natural as well as the most attractive. A pillar, say 

 of Crimson Rambler, well isolated upon the lawn, its fine growths darting 

 out here and there to relieve the pillar of formality, is, when aglow with 

 its crimson panicles of blossom, a gorgeous picture. By selecting the 

 freest growers, and placing the pillars some 12 to 20 feet apart, and con- 

 necting each by chains hung loosely, a pretty effect is produced when 

 the growths are sufficiently developed to clothe the chains with blossom. 

 For this purpose, what are known as running Roses, are only suitable. 

 Here the new Wichuraiana tribe will prove useful. Old kinds, such as 

 Flora, Aimee Vibert, the Garland, Dundee Rambler, Ruga, &c., are also 

 good. For pillar Roses, four-pronged iron stakes should be used, if 

 possible, unless some stout larch poles are available. As Roses of this 

 kind are often fixtures, trench the ground well before planting, working 

 in some good manure and burnt garden refuse. Place the pole in position 

 before planting the Rose. Early planting is advisable, and in all cases 

 pillar Roses should be cut back rather hard the first year, say within 

 two feet of their base, or even lower would be better. The growths that 

 result from this pruning are then retained their full length another 

 season. When the plants become filled out with wood or growths, two 

 or three supplementary stakes placed around, as one would tie out a 

 Dahlia plant, prevent overcrowding. It is when such pillars are bunched 

 up that insect pests become a great trouble. As the pillars develop, old 

 worn-out growths should be cut clean out in early autumn, and the 

 healthy one, two, and three-year shoots only should be retained, and 

 not all of these if likely to crowd too much. The lateral shoots break- 

 ing out from the main growths may be cut into three or four eyes, 

 or left longer. It is generally from these laterals that the best 

 blossoms are procured. Pillar Roses should receive liberal doses of 

 liquid manure. 



Creeping Roses. Sloping banks are not generally suitable for 

 trees or shrubs, but by planting such things as creeping Roses on the 

 top, and allowing them to run down the bank, much beauty is given to 

 the garden. Now that we have the delightful and valuable Rosa wichu- 

 raiana and its hybrids, one need not look further for suitable kinds. Most 

 varieties are now to be had on their own roots. The type will make 

 yards of growth in a season. In August it is bespangled with delightful 

 star-like white flowers, and its small shiny foliage has a most refreshing 



