90 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



frosts. Hardy Roses, such as Mosses, Gallicas, &c., may now be pruned. 

 Budded stocks should now be cut back as far as the inserted bud. After 

 this cutting back, the soil is then dug thinly and laid up as rough as 

 possible to sweeten. Any old bush Roses one does not care for, if cut 

 down to the ground, may be rebudded in July with good kinds. Where 

 one desires to layer some Roses, hard pruning should be done now. 

 Give new stakes to standard and pillar Roses before March winds 

 arise. 



Roses under glass will require much attention. Keep the soil rather 

 dry until new growths are about one inch in length, then give plants a 

 good watering with tepid water. It is best to repeat the watering the 

 next day in order to thoroughly soak through the ball of earth. Put 

 the plants upon inverted flower-pots on two bricks. Fumigate whether 

 fly is seen or not. The Rose house should receive a dressing of lime- 

 wash upon any brick-work inside. Paint the hot-water pipes with black 

 sulphur. If some skim milk is mixed with the sulphur the latter adheres 

 to the pipes better. Do not give side ventilation to pot Roses, but top 

 air on all suitable occasions. If the sun is bright forestall the rapid 

 rise of temperature by timely ventilation. Shut the ventilators about 

 three o'clock. Pot Roses revel in the sun heat thus enclosed. Syringe 

 the plants every bright morning with cold water. Endeavour to harden 

 the foliage so that it will withstand the mildew which often causes so 

 much trouble. Sudden risings or lowerings of temperature as well as cold 

 draughts bring mildew quicker than anything else. As soon as a spot 

 of white downy substance is noticed rub it with finger and thumb dipped 

 in sulphur. If bad attacks of mildew should appear syringe the foliage 

 with V. 2 K. fluid, using a fine spray syringe. Jeyes' Horticultural 

 wash is also an excellent remedy. Prune Roses in cold pits. 



MARCH. Planting may yet be done, but, if dry, water frequently. 

 The plants should also be hard pruned before planting. Cut newly- 

 planted Tea Roses back to 3 or 4 inches or less. They are sure to grow 

 well if roots and growths are healthy. Pruning should be finished by 

 the second week. In the north the third and fourth week will do. Prune 

 all now except the Teas, Polyanthas, Noisettes, and Chinas. After 

 pruning dig the land thinly. The best plan is to lightly prick it up with 

 a fork. On no account dig deeply, for the feeding roots run close to the 

 surface. If ground has been well prepared avoid mulching beds with 

 manure, as this mulch shuts out both sunshine and air. Mulchings are 

 only beneficial during hot days when plants are growing fast, and a good 

 loose blanket of earth is better than all the mulchings with manure. 

 Dwarf stocks for budding should now be planted. Where the pegging- 

 down system is adopted with vigorous growing Roses, some of the ripest 

 and longest growths should not be pruned. Do not, however, bend 

 them down until April. 



Indoor plants showing buds may have weak liquid manure twice a 

 week. A layer of fresh cow-manure is also of much benefit if applied 

 to the borders now, or to the surface of the pots. Do not allow the 

 temperature of the forcing-house to fall below 55 at night. Where 



