BULBOUS FLOWERS 119 



Lifting. If possible lift every year. This undoubtedly gives the best 

 results. Tulips will, however, succeed fairly well if they are undisturbed 

 for two, three, or sometimes a larger number of years, especially if the 

 soil is light. The writer has seen good flowering clumps in old cottage 

 gardens which have not been lifted for ten to twenty years. Somehow, 

 as in the case of the Madonna Lily, the ordinary canons of horticulture 

 do not apply to these lowly spots. Hence we should never advise anyone 

 to try it. The time to lift is when the foliage has partly turned yellow 

 and is soft and flabby to the touch. Speaking broadly, it will be from 

 the middle of June to the middle of July. 



Storing. When the bulbs are dug up put them in an airy, sunless 

 shed, outhouse, or room to dry, and be sure to take away all the green 

 leaves, should any be remaining. If the beds where late Tulips are grow- 

 ing are wanted for summer bedding, the plants may be lifted (if it can 

 be done without breaking off any foliage or roots) and at once heeled in 

 in some other part to ripen off, when the usual lifting processes may 

 take place. 



Diseases, Two different fungi attack Tulips. The withered and 

 dried-up look of the foliage, which is generally observed just before or 

 at flowering time, is caused by " fire." Any damage to the outer tegu- 

 ment of the foliage from hail, sun on frozen beads of water, &c., is con- 

 ducive to this. Cut off all affected parts as soon as and as much as 

 possible. 



The other disease is a sort of rot, and is much more deadly, and may be 

 known by the stem coming away from the bulb with the slightest pull. 

 Take up every bulb so affected with the surrounding soil and burn the 

 whole. Never plant Tulips in that particular ground if the disease has 

 been at all bad for five or six years. 



Some of the best varieties are contained in the following selections. A 

 diagram of a Tulip bed is given on the next page. Early singles Yellows : 

 Mon Tresor, Prince de Ligny (tall and pointed), Yellow Prince. Orange : 

 Fred Moore, Christian de Wet, Prince of Austria. Pink and Rose : 

 Cottage Maid, Pink Beauty, Le Matclas. Reds : Artis Coleur Cardinal 

 (late), Dusart, Vermillion Brilliant (early). Whites : Brunhilde, Princess 

 Helene, White Pottebakker. Various : Keizerskroon (red and yellow), 

 Van der Neer (rosy purple), Hector (orange and orange red), La Remar- 

 quable (purple red edged flesh). Early double : Murillo (pinky white), 

 Safrano (pinky yellow), Cochineal (crimson), Schoonoord (pure white), 

 Couronne d'or (orange). Cottage Branching: Mons. S. Mottet. 

 Browny shades: Clio, Toison d'or, Jaune d'QEuf, Gondvink. Mauve 

 and pinky mauve : Jnglescombe Pink, Le Reve (mid-season), Saloman. 

 Yellow : Inglescombe Yellow, Ellen Willmott, Moonlight, Mrs. Moon, 

 Bouton d'or, Leghorn Bonnet, Vitellina. Reds : Elegans, Gesners, La 

 Merveille, Scarlet Emperor, Scarlet Mammoth . Picotee edged : Golden 

 Crown, Picotee, Isabella. White : White Swan, Didiera alba (species). 

 Orange : Orange King. Broken : Striped Beauty, Dainty Maid, Col- 

 umbus, Gold Flake, Buenoventura. Darwins Red : Isis, Mr. Farncombc 

 Sanders, Pride of Haarlem, William Pitt, Loveliness. Pink : Clara Butt, 



