172 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



of these and other strong-growing varieties have taken place since. 

 One has to be careful, I find, about the division of the weaker growers. 

 This has to be done with more care and not so frequently. I divided 

 our plants of N. odorata rosacea and others of this section, and they never 

 throve well afterwards, I am sorry to say. The root growths of these 

 are much smaller and not nearly so succulent or sappy, being some- 

 what hard in texture. They make much smaller roots in comparison 

 also. The N. Laydekeri section appear to be somewhat intermediate in 

 growth, but they grow freely, all the same, and flower most profusely; but, 

 like the N. odorata section, do not need to be disturbed so frequently. 



One other method we have adopted with success, viz. that of plant- 

 ing without baskets by merely laying some soil upon the bottom ; then 

 place the plants in position and cover with soil, taking care to weight 

 them down securely. This plan can only be adopted when the water 

 is quite low ; meanwhile, and until the water rises sufficiently, they 

 must be covered with a mat or other shading. Never on any account 

 should tubs be used. This is an utter mistake, for the soil in them 

 becomes stagnant beyond any hope of improvement. I have heard of 

 Teak tubs being used for the purpose, but it is an expenditure that 

 cannot be in any sense justified. Wire baskets are not so bad as tubs, 

 because aeration of the water and the soil can then take place within 

 them. But wire baskets will contract, or limit, the growth of the 

 rhizomes, and this is to be regretted. Loose bricks are better than wire 

 baskets, as these can be removed and extended. Of all the systems, 

 however, I much prefer wicker nursery rounds without any handles 

 to them. In small and easily accessible fountains or basins of water, 

 I consider nothing to equal bricks of the usual size ; these should be 

 built up lightly and loosely, so as to hold the soil. About three courses 

 of these are sufficient for all but the strongest growers, and these only 

 need four courses at the most. So-called " pockets," or hollow spaces 

 provided in rockwork, at times are bad places for Water Lilies, as the 

 soil cannot be readily renewed in them. 



Season of Planting and Seed /ings. After several years' experi- 

 ence now, I find no time to equal the spring. From the last week in April 

 to the third week in May I consider to be the best time to both plant 

 and divide the rhizomes. The water then is more perceptibly rising 

 in temperature week by week, and this will be congenial to quicker 

 root development. Later planting may be safely practised, but such 

 does not give the plants the same opportunity of re-establishing them- 

 selves before the autumn sets in. I should never attempt to plant or 

 divide after August draws to a close. If by any chance seedlings are 

 noted during the summer months, it is better to mark these and leave 

 them until the following spring before in any way attempting removal. 

 If during the month of August or early September any seed should be 

 seen floating upon the surface of the water it may be secured and at 

 once sown in mud, then raised in a temperate house. After the burst- 

 ing of the seed-pods the seeds only float twenty-four hours, then sink 

 to the bottom. 



