GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY 289 



to half an inch. The result will be a sandy mixture without large lumps. 

 With this fill the prepared pots moderately firm to within a quarter of 

 an inch of the top, and they are then ready for the cuttings. The spring 

 is the busiest period with the propagator, but cuttings may also be put 

 in successfully throughout the summer months. The best cuttings as a 

 rule consist of the young growing shoots, taken off at a length of about 

 three inches, and when the bottom leaves are removed they are ready for 

 insertion. The cuttings must be put in with a dibble exactly as directed 

 for pricking off seedlings, and care must be taken not to overcrowd 

 them, as if this is done, decay is liable to set in. At the same time, 

 space within the propagating case is usually in demand, so that no room 

 must be wasted. Seven cuttings of such subjects as Fuchsias and Helio- 

 tropes may be, as a rule, accommodated in a four-inch pot. Directly 

 they are put in give them a good watering through a fine rose. The 

 warmest part of the greenhouse should be chosen for the propagating 

 case, and when this structure is kept at a slightly higher temperature 

 the cuttings will root more quickly. Even when the greenhouse is 

 shaded, lay an additional sheet of paper over the propagating case until 

 the cuttings are rooted. As soon as this takes place more air must be 

 given, and the cuttings gradually inured to the ordinary atmosphere of 

 the greenhouse, when they should be potted singly into small pots. 

 Many cuttings strike root in three weeks or so, so that from even a small 

 case a considerable number of things can be turned out during the season. 

 By many people bottom heat is considered necessary for propagation 

 by cuttings, but this is not the case, though, of course, they strike in 

 less time with the additional warmth. 



Though cuttings of most plants may be struck according to the 

 directions above given, there are exceptions, one of the most important 

 being the Pelargonium, or Geranium, as it is often called, which is repre- 

 sented in our gardens by innumerable varieties. For these prepare the 

 pots as just recommended for other subjects, but the cuttings are treated 

 differently. They should be cut clean off just below a joint, with a 

 sharp knife, and the bottom leaf removed. Then take off the small 

 leaf-like scales that are formed on the stem, as these otherwise frequently 

 prove a source of decay. The cuttings should then be inserted in the 

 pots prepared for them, give a good watering, and stand on a shelf or a 

 similar position in the greenhouse. Though the leaves will flag, and 

 many of the cuttings after a few days look unhappy, they soon root 

 under this treatment, not damping off or becoming attenuated as would 

 result in a close case. Of course the soil must be kept moderately moist. 

 When a pot is prepared for cuttings it is finished off by some growers 

 with a layer of clean silver sand on the top, but this is not recommended, 

 as if at all exposed the sand quickly dries, hence a mistake is often made 

 of watering the cuttings when the soil below the layer of sand is sufficiently 

 wet, and this may lead to disastrous results. 



Another class of plants requiring still different treatment comprises 

 those of a succulent nature, which will not flag however exposed. The 

 cuttings of these should not be inserted for a day after being separated 



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