THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 355 



Propagation by Cuttings. The period for the propagation by 

 cuttings depends upon when the grower requires his plants in flower. 

 If the object be simply large flowers for exhibition, the earlier the work 

 is taken in hand the better. Cuttings of Japanese sorts for this purpose 

 should be inserted in December. The late-flowering Japanese are better 

 if attended to earlier, even in November, while those kinds liable to blos- 

 som earlier than the majority, namely, mid-October and late October, 

 give excellent results if the cuttings are put in late in January. The 

 object in varying the date of propagating the exhibition varieties is to 

 ensure the plants flowering for the most part at the same time, namely 

 when the shows are taking place all over the country. The earlier half 

 of November is Chrysanthemum show time, and for this reason, by pro- 

 pagating the later sorts early and the early varieties late, the plants will 

 bloom about one time. Cuttings intended to produce exhibition plants 

 should be inserted singly in what are known as " thumb " pots, and if 

 deep " thumbs " can be obtained so much the better. Wash the pots 

 quite clean, and soak new pots in clean water to absorb moisture. The 

 broken potsherds should also be cleansed, and this is work that must not 

 be neglected. It is by observing such details as this that success is 

 assured. In raising plants for the conservatory, for use also as cut 

 flowers, or for planting in the outdoor border for a rich autumn display, 

 a simpler method of propagation will answer. Half a dozen or more 

 cuttings may be inserted around the edge of a three-inch pot or 

 a larger number in those of increased size. Boxes about two inches 

 deep, fifteen inches long, and ten inches wide, are excellent for raising 

 large stocks of plants in. Another method, and one largely adopted by 

 market men, is that of making up shallow beds inside the cool green- 

 house, where a cool bottom can be obtained, and inserting the cuttings 

 in these. Under these circumstances, provided the soil is not allowed 

 to become too moist, failure is almost unknown, and it is remarkable how 

 quickly the cuttings root. Both in the case of boxes and the beds 

 arranged on the stages of the greenhouse, a good system of drainage should 

 be observed. Potsherds and pieces of fibrous turf answer the purpose 

 admirably, keeping the drainage open, and the soil sweet. 



Soil for Cuttings. The compost for the cuttings should be fibrous 

 loam, well-decomposed leaf-mould, and coarse silver sand or road grit in 

 equal proportions. Before these ingredients can be used, pass them 

 through a sieve with a half-inch mesh, and mix them thoroughly after- 

 wards. The residue the fibrous tufts of loam and the coarser and less 

 decayed portions of the leaf soil should be taken care of, as this material 

 will be wanted. When the soil is ready place a small piece of crock over 

 the hole in the bottom of the pot, and cover this with a layer of smaller 

 pieces. Cover the crocks with a small layer of the rougher sif tings of the 

 compost referred to, filling in the soil afterwards to the rim of the pots, 

 and giving the latter a sharp rap on the potting bench to settle the soil 

 rather firmly. A pinch of silver sand should be placed on the soil in the 

 centre, and then with a cedar-wood pencil, or anything similar in shape, 

 make a hole, carrying down the sand when making it, the hole to be of 



