THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 363 



Bush Plants. These find much favour with those who prefer an 

 abundance of flowers. When they are propagated as early as December 

 or January, there should be no difficulty in obtaining very large plants. 

 The method of culture to be followed in this case is very simple. When 

 the young plant is from six inches to eight inches high, pinch out the 

 tip or point of the shoot, thus inducing the plant to break out into fresh, 

 new growths at the axils of the leaves immediately below. From this 

 time, as succeeding shoots attain a length of six inches, pinch out the 

 points. If a November display be the aim of the cultivator, the last 

 " pinching " should take place during the third week of June, while for 

 a December display continue pinching the shoots until the third week 

 of July. The plants by this treatment flower on terminal buds, and 

 with the exception of thinning out if necessary they may be left to 

 develop. For the greenhouse and conservatory these plants are un- 

 equalled, and as cut flowers for indoor decorations these freely-flowered 

 plants are specially suitable. 



Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums. Those who have never 

 grown the early-flowering Chrysanthemums miss many charming varieties. 

 There are now many English raisers, and their varieties are fast dis- 

 placing sorts of Continental origin. Beautiful varieties are in store 

 in the near future, and there is a real prospect of English gardens in 

 autumn reflecting the glory of drowsy summer days. They are essen- 

 tially plants for the outdoor garden, where their flowers make patches of 

 colour when Dahlias and other tender subjects are cut down by frost ; 

 the early-flowering Chrysanthemums continue blossoming freely until 

 severe frosts occur. The best plants are dwarf and branching, and 

 develop their growths without any interference whatever. Cuttings may 

 be inserted between January and the end of March, while many of the 

 Pompons may be propagated as late even as May. The advantage of 

 early propagation is that larger plants by these means are developed, 

 January cuttings often resulting in plants which will carry one hundred 

 and fifty flowers. They should be potted up into pots of various sizes 

 as advised for the mid-season sorts, the last shift for plants intended for 

 the outdoor border being into those five inches in diameter. Before 

 planting out, carefully harden off the plants in cold frames, and stand 

 them together in batches in a sheltered position out of doors. The third 

 week in May is the best time for planting, all danger of serious frosts 

 then being over. The ground should have been deeply dug previously, 

 but not too much enriched with manures. Plant firmly, allowing a 

 distance between each plant of three feet for the Japanese sorts, and the 

 same distance between each row. The Pompons require less space, two 

 and a half feet between the plants and the rows answering the purpose 

 well. An occasional hoeing between the plants during the summer 

 months will keep weeds in check, and sweeten the soil. In very dry 

 weather water copiously, and give a liberal supply of liquid manure 

 once or twice after the buds are formed. In wet weather dust the soil 

 around the plants with one of the concentrated manures. It will be 

 necessary, before the summer has advanced much, to insert a stout stake 



