402 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



further apart. The old Red Cabbage produces very large and useful leafage with great 

 heads. The Dwarf Blood-Red variety is preferable, as if the heads are smaller than the 

 others they are firmer, of deeper colour, and much sooner come to maturity. Seed may 

 also be sown in the autumn for spring planting. 



Cabbages, Colewort. These hardy greens bear a close resemblance to Cabbages, but 

 are usually sown early in June, and again in July, in small beds, to give successional 

 plants to put out in the autumn. As the heads are not large, and they turn in quickly, it 

 suffices to plant from 12 to 14 inches apart each way, both in August and September, on 

 ground that has been forked over after a crop of Potatoes, Peas, autumn-sown Onions, 

 or similar products has been removed. They then turn in for pulling or cutting during 

 mid and late winter. The flesh of these Coleworts when cooked is softer and more succu- 

 lent than is that of Cabbages, and oeing planted so close, become very profitable. Like 

 all Cabbage tribe seeds, it is best to sow in shallow drills, and also to protect from birds. 

 The two common varieties grown are the Hardy Green and the Rosette, the latter being 

 broad-headed. 



Cabbages, Savoy. Possibly these hardy winter Cabbages originated in Savoy. They 

 are, besides being hardy, peculiar for producing partially-curled and much-puffed or corru- 

 gated leafage, which is usually of a dark green colour. The heads are roundish, and 

 during the season become very firm. They are best for cooking from December till the 

 end of March, severe weather helping to make the leafage tender for eating. The times 

 of sowing seed varies from April to June, according to variety and habit. Too often, if 

 seed be sown early, these Cabbages heart in during the autumn, when they are not 

 wanted. Plants from later sowings, especially of dwarf varieties, heart in late in the 

 winter. The Drumhead is the largest, but is least fitted for gardens. The best varieties 

 are Dwarf Green Curled, Tom Thumb, and Early Ulm. Plant the first 18 inches apart, 

 and the latter two at 15 inches each way. After cutting, the stems give nice greens to 

 gather in the spring. 



Cabbages, Kale. These, also called Borecole, are, like Savoy Cabbages, essentially late 

 winter and early spring greens, and very hardy. Sowings made in April usually suffice 

 for all ordinary purposes, and are best made in drills. There are numerous varieties, the 

 best being Dwarf Curled, Scotch, Cottager's (tall), Drumhead Kale, which forms moder- 

 ately hard hearts, and Chou de Russie or Russian Kale. The last named has highly 

 fimbriated leaves, and is a splendid vegetable for winter and spring use. The Scotch and 

 Cottager's need to be planted in rows 2 feet apart and 18 inches apart in the rows, 

 whilst the others may go rather closer together. The Asparagus Kale is much liked by 

 some also. These greens can often be profitably planted for succession between dwarf 

 Potatoes or Peas, and always planted to follow after any of these or other early crops 

 have been taken up, even till the end of September, as their produce is always useful. 



Cardoons. These are raised from seed sown in shallow boxes under glass, the seed- 

 lings being transplanted into rows outdoors when strong, or seed may be sown in drills 

 on rich deep soil outdoors at the end of April, the plants being, when strong enough, 

 thinned out to 12 inches apart ; the rows should be 4 feet apart to enable the plants to be 

 moulded up, as Celery is, to blanch the leaf stems. These should be gathered up together 

 before soil is placed to them, as the leafage is very large and spreading. When stems are 

 strong and well blanched, they are from 20 to 24 inches in height, but for ordinary use 

 smaller ones are best and not so coarse to eat. When stems are cleaned they should be 

 cut into lengths of 6 inches, tied into bundles, and then gently but well boiled before 

 they are served to table. 



Carrots. The earliest of all Carrots are the Early French Horn varieties, such as are 

 commonly forced on hot-beds or sown very early on warm garden borders. Where there 

 are spare wood, movable frames, and plenty of manure and tree leaves to make up a 

 hot-bed, one may be built up in January in a sheltered and warm place, on to which, 

 when settled down, the wood frame may be placed. Into that should be put good soil 

 6 inches in depth, well levelled, and on which, in shallow drills 4 inches apart, seeds of 

 the Early Horn, Forcing, or Gem may be thinly sown, then covered up with fine sandy 

 soil, also thinly, well watered, and left after the light has been shut down close. A hot- 

 bed made up 2 feet in depth, and very firm, of one-half stable manure and the rest of 

 tree leaves, gives a gentle warmth for some time, and answers admirably to help the 

 seed to make growth. There will be nice Carrots usually from an inch to an inch 

 and a half long, and about the size round of a man's small finger, to pull in a few 

 weeks, and most delicious they are. Thinning the plants is not required. A similar 

 sowing may be made in February on a piece of ground the size of a frame, on a warm 

 border, without any hot-bed. Round the bed may be fixed, on edge, stout boards 

 12 inches deep, and on these be laid the glass-light of a frame of that size. Failing a 

 frame, strips of wood may be laid across, and on these a thin covering of canvas or calico, 

 until growth begins, then the covering should be given only at night. Early in April sow- 



