4 o 4 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



Late Guardian. These from an April sowing, then planted out at the middle of June, 

 give fine heads during August and September, especially if well watered when planted 

 and the soil has been well manured. Cauliflowers, because they have to make their 

 chief growth during hot weather, need more liberal treatment in soil and watering than 

 Broccoli. A later and rather hardier variety also to be sown in April is Veitch's Autumn 

 Giant. This is a superb variety to head in during September and two or three following 

 months. Plants should be put out into rows fully 2^ feet apart, and in good, deep 

 holding soil. If one planting be made in June and a second a month later then a long 

 succession of heads is produced. Late heads may be partially protected from early winter 

 frosts by drawing the large leaves together and tying them into a cone. That should be 

 done as soon as white heads show. Even a few large leaves broken down , so that they 

 lay two or three thick over the centres, protect in the same way. Cauliflower and Broccoli 

 stems, after the heads have been cut, do not sprout, hence they may he pulled or forked 

 up and removed at once. 



Celery. This is the chief of winter salads, and, when well prepared, is in universal 

 favour. But its excellence depends so much upon culture and proper blanching that 

 Celery may well be classed amongst the best vegetables of a garden. It is a hardy, 

 cold weather plant also, yet sometimes suffers severely from hard frosts, because the 

 blanching of the stems serves to make them somewhat tender. Seed is cheap, and a 

 very small quantity suffices to make a sowing for a small garden. Two sowings also are 

 ample. The first should be made rather thinly in a broad, shallow pan filled with light, 

 sandy soil. In a pan, 10 inches broad, some 200 seedlings can easily be raised, enough 

 to make quite a big planting for a small garden. Make that sowing about the end of 

 February, standing the pan in a frame or greenhouse, and shading when the sun shines 

 out warmly. The seed of Celery germinates slowly, but comes all in good time. When 

 the seedlings are 2 inches in height they should be lifted carefully from the pan and be 

 put out 3 inches apart on to shallow boxes of soil or into a frame or under a hand-light 

 where they can remain until 6 inches in height and quite strong, ready to plant out into 

 trenches. The second sowing, to give later plants, may be made in the same way, or, if 

 preferred, in a shallow box, towards the end of April. The plants of this sowing, when 

 strong enough to lift, should be dibbled out on a well-prepared patch of ground, slightly 

 shaded, in the open garden. For such purpose throw off an inch thick of the top soil 

 on a space 4 feet by 6 feet, then lay on the space short manure, an inch thick, well 

 patted down, and on to that recast the soil previously thrown off and neatly levelled. 

 Then dibble out the seedling plants on to that, 4 inches apart each way, taking sixteen 

 plants in a row, and if the whole patch be thus filled it will hold upwards of 350 plants. 

 When planted water freely, and as it will then be June shade from strong sunshine for 

 some ten days until the plants are well rooted. Water freely each day if needed. In 

 six weeks very strong well-rooted plants will result. 



Trenches for the reception of Celery plants are desirable, not only because they 

 facilitate moulding up to blanch the stems later, but also enable liberal waterings to be 

 given, and where made side by side trenches should be fully 5 feet apart. Also they 

 should be thrown out 18 inches wide and 12 inches deep. If the bottom soil be good add 

 a dressing of well-decayed manure 3 inches thick, and well fork it into the bottom. If the 

 subsoil be poor, or gravelly, or clay, throw out 8 inches depth of it upon one side, throw 

 in so much of the top soil, then add to that and mix the needful manure dressing, and on 

 that fork in a couple of inches more of soil. In a few days the trenches will be ready to 

 plant. Do that with a trowel, lifting a dozen or so plants from the bed at once with good 

 ball of soil and roots, taking them in a flat basket to the trench, and then with the trowel 

 planting them well in a single row up the centre of the trench at 10 inches apart, fixing 

 them securely by treading with the feet as the planting proceeds. If at once a liberal 

 soaking of water be given the plants will not suffer much from the transplanting. No 

 set time can be fixed for this work, as much depends on when ground for trenches is 

 available. Usually for late Celery the end of July is soon enough to get it out, and by 

 that time some early Potatoes, Peas, or other crops have been cleared off and space is 

 available. In the case of an earlier planting it is desirable if possible to reserve a space 

 specially for a trench or two, but that must depend on garden room, otherwise the first 

 ground cleared from some other crop must be used. 



Celery plants are gross feeders, and during dry weather need frequent liberal water- 

 ings ; and if once a week the plants can have a good soaking of liquid manure, made in 

 a large tub from horse, sheep, or fowl's manure, with some soot added, or failing these 

 things, then with some dissolved guano or other artificial manures, at the rate of i Ib. 

 to 10 gallons of water, great good will result. Fairly quick growth is always best. 

 Earthing should not commence until the plants have made strong growth, as after it has 

 begun watering cannot go on. This work should always be done in dry weather ; any 

 very short leaves or suckers about the bottoms of the plants should be first pulled off. 



