VEGETABLE GROWING 405 



Moulding up is facilitated if the tall stems of each plant be tied up loosely together, as 

 then with a fork or spade the soil can be placed about the plants evenly, being gently 

 pressed in about them with the hand. The first moulding should not exceed 6 inches in 

 depth, other mouldings, of some 3 or 4 inches in depth, being added as the plants make 

 growth, until finally they are well banked up with soil on both sides, and patted down 

 to throw off rain. Late Celery may be in very severe weather saved from harm by shaking 

 over the tops of the plants some fern or long straw-litter. The chief insect-pest is the 

 maggot, caused by the celery-fly, which deposits its eggs in the leaves. These soon 

 hatch and produce maggots, which subsist on the green colouring matter in the leaves, 

 and make brown blotches in them. As soon as these blotches are seen they should be 

 pressed firmly between finger and thumb, thus killing the insect. Good White Celeries 

 are Pearl White and Solid White ; and of reds none are better than Aldenham Prize 

 Pink and Mammoth Red. These latter are best for late winter use, being usually hardier 

 than white varieties. 



Celeriac. This is a turnip rooted form of Celery, and is useful when well grown to 

 give bulbous roots for stewing or for slicing, to make salading, or may be used equally 

 for flavouring soups, &c. Seed, of which one sowing is ample, may be sown in April. 

 The plants are hardier than Celery, and one great point is that, if grown from seed as 

 Celery is, then when the plants are strong, put out, 9 inches apart, in rows 2 feet apart, 

 on level but good ground, the bulbs form on the surface like those of turnips, and in the 

 winter they can be covered up with soil, the tips of the leaves only being exposed, and 

 in that way kept from harm by frost. Celeriac should always be grown where flavouring 

 for soups is in great demand. 



Chicory or.Witloof. This is a deep growing, fleshy-rooted plant similar to the Parsnip. 

 The leaves closely resemble those of the Dandelion. Seeds sown in shallow drills, 12 

 inches apart, in the month of May on good garden soil will give properly thinned, strong 

 roots the following winter. Seeds should be sown thinly in the drills, as the plants have 

 to be thinned out 4 inches to 5 inches apart in the rows. The hoe should be freely used 

 between them during the summer. In the winter the roots may be lifted as needed, or 

 in bulk, and stored in dry sand in a cool shed ; then, if some be placed in a cellar or in 

 a big box with soil about them, and covered up quite close to exclude light, the crowns 

 send up strong growth like Seakale ; when blanched it is tender and mild, making capital 

 salading, or may be cooked like Seakale and eaten. It is a useful winter vegetable. 



Cucumbers. Because these tender members of the Gourd family can rarely be grown 

 successfully except under glass, they tax the capacity of beginners in gardening materially. 

 The simplest culture is only required to produce Ridge Cucumbers, and small ones of 

 the same nature called Gherkins. These are grown outdoors in warm positions, and if 

 wind prevails in the garden much shelter can be provided by growing on the windward 

 side a tall row of Runner Beans. Even a bed of Asparagus will also furnish a break 

 from wind. The best way to grow these is to make holes 18 inches across and 12 inches 

 deep. Fill these holes with short fresh stable manure, treading it down and heaping soil 

 over it 4 inches thick, thus forming a mound. In the centre of each of these mounds sow, 

 4 inches apart and i inch in depth, six seeds. Place a large flower-pot over each mound 

 until growth is seen. Then lift it off, covering up only at night, or at least until the 

 plants become too strong to be thus protected. But when second or third leaves have 

 been formed, three of the weaker plants should be pulled out, leaving the three strongest 

 only. The mounds should be 3 feet apart. The sowing should take place about the 

 third week in May, but later if the weather be cold. The manure buried into the holes 

 generates a little warmth which helps the seeds to germinate. For that purpose it is 

 well to prepare the mounds about a week before the ordinary date of sowing seed. The 

 best varieties for this form of outdoor culture are King of the Ridge, Long Green, and 

 The Gherkin, the latter being used for pickling. 



Cucumbers, Frame-House. All the long handsome cucumbers seen in shops and in 

 markets are grown in warmth, under glass. But beginners in gardening, who have prob- 

 ably only a frame or small greenhouse at their disposal, can grow them only in a small 

 way. To have the fruits early, the most useful way in this case is to obtain stable 

 manure early in the spring, and to make up a proper hot-bed for the purpose. To do 

 this well the manure should be obtained all at once, and in sufficient quantity. If a 

 frame be of the ordinary one-light size, 6 feet by 4 feet, a good cartload of manure will be 

 needed, and for a double-light frame quite two cartloads are needful. When obtained, the 

 whole of it should be well turned into a neat heap, and shaken or mixed, removing the 

 bulk of the long straw. That, of course, reduces the quantity, but it is needful. When 

 the heap has been thus made, a long, pointed stick should be thrust deep into it. After 

 four or five days that can be pulled out and felt to test heat, and if found hot the heap 

 should be at once re-turned and well shaken together ; also the manure during the 

 process should receive several good sprinklings of water, not to deluge it, but to damp it 



