CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 451 



growth. Water is hardly needed from after pruning until the Vines 

 have been started several weeks. 



Varieties. Undoubtedly the best of all Grapes for the amateur is 



Black Hamburgh, unless very late Grapes are required. This variety 

 may be ripened by the month of May, and also throughout the summer 

 until October and November. It has an excellent constitution, bears 

 well, sets freely, and the fruit ripens quickly. 



Foster's Seedling a white Grape is almost, if not equally as good. 

 It also may be had in perfection in May, and, like Black Hamburgh, 

 has a good constitution. The berries are yellowish-white, and very 

 sweet. It makes an excellent companion for Black Hamburgh. These 

 two Grapes are certainly the most satisfactory for an amateur grower. 



Black Alicante may be next recommended. This is a late Grape of 

 good flavour, and may be had from October to March. 



Gros Colman is a large, black, late Grape, of a peculiar and distinct 

 flavour, largely grown for the London market. It requires more heat 

 than the above varieties to properly ripen. 



Madresfield Court and Muscat of Alexandria are two splendid 

 Grapes, but require rather a higher temperature to ensure success than 

 the two varieties first named. 



Lady DownJs Seedling is a delicious late Grape, that keeps until 

 late in spring ; it has not, however, a vigorous constitution. 



Propagation. The usual way of increasing the Vine is by means 

 of " eyes," taken in winter. The term " eye " denotes a cut portion of 

 the previous summer's ripened wood, containing a bud. It is about 

 an inch long, being cut close to the bud on both sides. Each of these 

 " eyes " is capable under proper treatment of developing into a fruit- 

 bearing Vine. After each bud or " eye " has been cut as shown 

 in the month of January they are placed singly in small pots, 2j 

 inches in diameter. These are previously firmly filled with a mixture 

 of loam and leaf-soil, and the " eye " is then pressed into this, until 

 only the bud is visible. Plunge all the pots in fibre or sand over hot- 

 water pipes in the warmest house at disposal, or a small hot-bed of 

 manure might be made. Syringe them several times a day, and shade 

 when the weather is bright. The buds in a week or two will com- 

 mence to burst. The soil hardly needs water for two or three weeks 

 after the bud has burst into growth, for comparatively few roots are 

 formed ; until then keep the tiny plants in a position near the glass so 

 that they may have plenty of light and sun, and they will soon increase 

 in size and vigour. 



Herbaceous Grafting, that is, the uniting of two growing shoots, 

 and Inarching, are two useful operations, well worth knowing how to 

 perform. If, for instance, two Vines are growing side by side, one of 

 which is worthless, a shoot from the one that is of value may be 

 grafted upon the worthless one, and the branches of the latter 

 eventually cut down. The operation is very simple: Choose two 

 shoots that can easily be brought together. With a sharp knife cut a 

 small piece from the side of each, and fasten the cut portions together, 



