CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 467 



should be 6 inches or 8 inches apart, so that if the plants have two or 

 three stems, they naturally must be placed wider apart. The manage- 

 ment of espalier Gooseberries is simple : allow the leading shoots to 

 grow throughout the summer, and shorten them back slightly every 

 winter, until the top of the trellis is reached. In the month of June, 

 pinch all unduly vigorous side shoots back to six leaves, and in winter 

 shorten them to within about half an inch of the older wood. 



Fan-trained Gooseberry trees are also used for planting against 

 espaliers. By this method a quantity of young wood may be laid in 

 every year upon which fruit is freely produced. The older shoots 

 must, of course, be cut away to make room for this. In pruning fan- 

 trained trees all that is necessary is to regulate the branches every 

 autumn to several inches apart, retaining the young shoots in prefer- 

 ence to older ones. In summer endeavour to encourage a shoot from 

 the base of the previous year's wood, so that it may take the place of 

 the latter. Pinch hard back all the other shoots upon the same branch, 

 so that the one at the base may grow freely. For suitable varieties see 

 table on p. 611. 



Currants. There are three kinds of Currants under cultivation 

 for their fruits, viz. : the Black, Red, and White. The Black and the 

 Red both grow wild in this country, and the White is a variety of the 

 Red one. 



Red and White Currants. As in the case of the Gooseberry, 

 Currants may be propagated from seed if there is a special reason 

 for doing so, such as the raising of a new variety, but the most satis- 

 factory, convenient, and generally practised method is by cuttings, 

 which are made in exactly the same way as advised for the Goose- 

 berry. Firm, short-jointed shoots, from 12 to 15 inches long, 

 are taken off, and all the buds removed, except four or five near to 

 the apex, so that no suckers can appear afterwards. In preparing the 

 shoot, cut it straight across, under a joint, for it is only here that roots 

 are formed. If the cut were made, say, midway between the two 

 joints, the end would die back to the first joint above, and probably 

 would not form roots at all. Insert the cuttings on a shady border 

 several inches from each other, in rows 12 inches apart. The 

 principal branches of the Currant bush may be obtained in the same 

 way as described for the Gooseberry, i.e. by shortening each of the 

 primary shoots, so as to obtain two from them, making six in all. 

 Currant bushes are less spreading in growth, consequently there will 

 not be space for so many branches, from six to nine being sufficient. 

 Red and White Currants succeed in any well-tilled land. A deep, 

 loamy soil is the best for them, and a light, gravelly one the worst. 

 Many cultivators plant them against walls to insure a succession. 

 Those trained on walls facing west or south-west provide the first 

 supply, while those on north walls are the latest. As with Goose- 

 berries, it is preferable, if possible, to have all the plants together, 

 either upon a plot of land or in a row by the side of a walk. They 

 should be planted at a distance of from 5 feet to 6 feet apart. Plant in 



