468 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



the autumn, just before the leaves fall, so that the bushes may become 

 partially established before winter. Do not plant White Currants 

 between Red ones, for the former grow less vigorously than the latter, 

 thus requiring a smaller amount of space for development. 



General Treatment. During summer, to prevent overcrowding, 

 remove those shoots that are weak, and pinch the strongest ones 

 back to six leaves. The cultivator should always bear in mind that 

 to provide the requisite nourishment for the development and ripening 

 of a crop of fruit, a certain quantity of healthy young roots is essential, 

 and the way to encourage their formation is to allow moderately free 

 growth. Always avoid removing a lot of foliage at once. Rather go 

 over the plants daily, and stop a few of the strongest shoots each time, 

 or remove a few of the weak and useless ones. Every winter, until the 

 bush has reached the desired height, the leading shoots must be 

 shortened back to about 6 inches, more or less, according to whether 

 they are exceptionally vigorous or otherwise. Unless this is done the 

 fruit spurs that eventually form will be very weak. Always cut to 

 a bud pointing outwards, so as to preserve the symmetry of the bush. 

 The side shoots must be cut closely back to within an inch of the old 

 wood. The White Currant does not require to be pruned so hard as 

 the Red, for it is of more slender growth, and less vigorous in every 

 way. During summer spread manure round the bushes, for this keeps 

 the soil cool and moist, and Currants quickly suffer from drought. 

 Do not gather the fruit when wet, especially if intended for preserving. 

 The bushes should be covered with netting when the fruit is ripening, 

 or the birds will prove destructive. Currants are often grown 

 as standards, and are then very useful, especially in small gardens; 

 moreover, they are quite easy to manage. Insert the cuttings as 

 previously advised. In spring only allow the shoot from the 

 top bud to grow, and pinch back the others to one or two leaves 

 as they develop. Do not interfere with the leading shoot until 

 it has reached a height of rather more than 3 feet from the 

 ground. Fasten it to a stout stake, so that it may be held firmly. 

 In the autumn slightly shorten the shoot, and next spring train four 

 growths from just below the apex, to form the primary branches of the 

 tree. These will thus be 3 feet above ground. The advantage of 

 standard trees is that other bushes can be grown underneath them, for 

 there is, of course, plenty of room for the stem of a standard between 

 these. 



Black Currants. The Black Currant delights in a deep moist 

 soil, and prefers a somewhat shaded position. It does not thrive so 

 well on poor, light land, although much may be done to improve this 

 by well mulching and manuring. The Black Currant must have 

 altogether different treatment to that required for the Red and White 

 kinds. In the first place, the lowest buds must not be removed from 

 the cuttings, when these are prepared, for the fruit is borne largely 

 upon wood of the previous season's growth. The object then should 

 be to annually introduce as many young shoots as possible, for these 



