CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 471 



bush near the coast. The Brunswick, a pear-shaped fruit, develops 

 exceptionally well; also other kinds, but this is unusually good. 

 With regard to the position the trees should occupy, choose a west 

 or south wall, and when planting make the soil, or add to it, so that 

 the roots obtain a good percentage of chalk or lime, as this results 

 in a firmer growth ; the trees are hardier and more fruitful. March 

 or April is the best time to plant, and the trees may be selected 

 with a single leg or stem, as, unless this is done, sucker growth is 

 troublesome. On the other hand, they may, with advantage, have 

 three leaders. Train these in, and a wall is more quickly filled, as 

 from each of these main shoots others will converge. They should be 

 at a distance of 18 inches apart; this will allow for spur-growths 

 from the side shoots, all foreright shoots being rubbed off as they 

 appear that is, the shoots that push out at right angles to the wall. 

 All shoots should come from the sides, and, as far as possible, at 

 about equal distances apart. 



There are fewer varieties to choose from for open walls. The 

 Brunswick is one of the best, and Brown Turkey is very fine in a warm 

 soil or upon a south wall. In the north of England and in Scotland 

 Castle Kennedy is a favourite, but it does not bear freely and makes 

 rather gross wood. Brunswick is far more trustworthy and profitable 

 if given room to expand on a warm wall, the old wood cut out, and 

 new growths laid in each year. Another very good open-wall variety 

 is White Marseilles, and, like the Brown Turkey, is excellent when 

 forced indeed, these two last named and the Brunswick are un- 

 doubtedly the most suitable for walls. Even in the south it is 

 necessary at times to protect the trees in winter. Unnail the branches, 

 cut out useless wood in November, tie the branches in bundles, 

 and wrap straw, hay, or, what is better, dry bracken well round the 

 wood, and then encircle with mats. Make the trees firmly secure 

 to the wall after the mat has been placed round the protecting materials. 

 In April remove the covering, and a little later nail the trees in their 

 places, and stop side growths, as advised for forced trees. 



Melons. Many amateurs are afraid to grow the Melon; its 

 culture is regarded as mysterious; but once a few important details 

 are mastered, the work is quite easy. Usually the beginner kills the 

 plant with kindness at the start. Little food is required at first, as 

 a rich root run means gross growth and poor fruits or none at all. 

 Setting is a difficult matter, as the plants run to leaf, the little fruits 

 turn yellow and refuse to swell. 



Melons in Houses. Where Melons are forced for early fruits at 

 least three crops may be taken in the same house by having strong 

 plants ready to put out as fruit is taken from the old ones. Many 

 good growers can take two crops from one set of plants, but great 

 attention is necessary. Beginners could not be expected to do this. 

 If Melon seed is sown in January the fruits should be ripe at the end of 

 May or early in June. Another set of strong plants should be ready, 

 and these will ripen in the middle of August, as from June to August 



