CULTIVATION OF FRUIT 483 



year at least in pots, such being more amenable to treatment 

 the following season. Peaches and Nectarines are much 

 better if cultivated in pots from the bud stage onwards than 

 when allowed to make one season's growth, and that often a 

 too luxuriant one, in the open quarters of nursery grounds. 

 All pot trees should be bristling with flower buds when pur- 

 chased in the autumn season of the year, if they are not so 

 the management is at fault rather than any peculiarity of the 

 trees themselves. As a rule the pots of newly-purchased 

 trees should not exceed 10 inches in diameter, unless trees of 

 extra size are desired. 



Potting. The question is often asked Is it necessary or 

 expedient to pot the trees annually ? The answer is Yes, by 

 all means do it in every instance. It is a popular delusion, 

 as well as a decided source of failure, to omit this work every 

 autumn. The annual repotting is productive of fine fibrous 

 roots which are the essence of fertility. If not so treated the 

 soil before the second year has expired will become utterly 

 exhausted, whilst the requirements in the way of watering 

 are increased. It must not be inferred from this that larger 

 pots are recommended every autumn. A larger size of pot 

 once in three years is ample, as a rule, for the trees. On no 

 account should the trees be put into larger pots without first 

 having reduced the balls, in a more moderate degree, how- 

 ever, than when similar sizes of pots are again to be used. 

 In the latter instances a sufficient reduction must be made to 

 ensure a good amount of fresh soil such, for instance, as 

 will allow of the fingers being passed freely around and 

 between the balls and the pots. Firm potting is absolutely 

 essential both in order to prevent the water percolating 

 through the new soil rather than the old balls, and in order 

 to foster fibrous root action. In order to do this work well 

 pot rammers must be used. In reducing the balls take away 

 the lower portion as well as the upper, and in repotting allow 

 sufficient room for watering and top-dressing. The best tool 

 with which to reduce the balls is a small claw-like instrument 

 about the length of a wall hammer. This is easily made. If 

 any roots show signs of over-luxuriance, it is advisable to cut 

 them off clean with a knife rather than break them away. 

 Should there be the slightest tendency towards being dry at 

 the roots the ball should be well soaked in a tub of water. 

 After potting, those trees that are intended for forcing can 

 either be stood again in an open, sunny position if the 

 weather be fine, or taken under glass if there be room to 

 spare. It is certainly advisable to place the earliest forced 



