CALENDAR OF MONTHLY WORK 499 



just large enough to handle should be thinned. Many beautiful hardy flowers are 

 ruined through sowing too thickly and leaving all to chance. Others may, with advan- 

 tage, be transplanted or gaps made good, and where others have failed more may be 

 sown. In favourable weather, half-hardy things may now be planted, and such plants 

 as Geraniums, but only towards the end of the month. These, if purchased, should be 

 well exposed for a little time before planting. When brought direct from a house or 

 from under glass, they lose their leaves badly and take weeks to recover. All plants 

 for autumn and spring beds are best sown this month ; there must be no further delay. 

 Dahlias may be planted, Carnations staked. A sharp look-out is now necessary with 

 Roses, to keep clear of insect pests. Mow the lawn weekly, roll walks when possible, 

 and the flower garden will be most enjoyable. 



Vegetables. This is a very busy month, as every spare bit of land should now be 

 made the most of. Plant autumn Cauliflowers and Broccoli in fairly good soil, Savoy, 

 Kale, and late Broccoli in land not recently manured, as plants, to stand the winter, must 

 not be at all over-luxuriant, but as hard as possible. Lettuce should be transplanted, and 

 more seed sown. Broad, French, and Runner Beans should now be sown, the first- 

 named in a cool border, heavy soil if possible, the two latter in diverse soil and a warm, 

 open position. Sow Runner Beans from the loth to the 2oth of the month, according to 

 the locality. These like a rich root run. Celery should be secured for early supplies, and 

 trenches made for a later lot. Some of the best Marrow Peas, such as Autocrat and 

 Ne Plus Ultra, should be sown in well-manured land for August and later supplies. 

 Turnips should be sown on a cool border, and kinds that will stand dry weather, such as 

 Red Globe, as from this date this vegetable is attacked by fly. If any of the late Broccoli 

 or Kales have failed, sowings made now will make up for losses. Give Asparagus beds 

 occasional dressings of salt and liquid manures or nitrates well watered in. Early 

 Potatoes should be moulded up as soon as large enough. The Dutch hoe should be 

 kept going between growing crops, and watering done if actually needed. 



Fruit Garden. Stopping and training in shoots of Peach and Nectarine trees will need 

 more attention this month than previously, and in cold soils the tender foliage of the 

 Peach frequently suffers. One of the worst troubles is mildew, which may be stopped 

 by syringing with a sulphur solution, also in very slight cases dusting over the trees when 

 damp with flowers of sulphur. Royal George Peach quickly becomes mildewed. All 

 fruits of Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines should now be thinned, and with care after 

 this date few fruits will fall. Strawberry beds that are intended to bear should now be 

 mulched with clean litter or straw to protect the fruit. Grass is used at times, but 

 short grass is objectionable in wet weather ; but that from fields cut at this date, before 

 the seeds are matured, and laid straight, forms a good protection and does not seed like 

 straw litter. Newly-planted trees may need water, and it is well to thin the fruits severely 

 as they form, leaving sufficient to test variety. 



JUNE 



Flower Garden. This month will show some return for labour previously expended. 

 This is an excellent time to sow seed of hardy perennial or biennial flowers, which make a 

 charming display not only for one year, but yearly, as many may be propagated afterwards 

 by division of root or cuttings. Finish all planting out, and stake or support anything 

 needed. It is better to do this early before the plants get injured. Now is a good time 

 to kill weeds on walks. Use weed-killers when the weather is dry. Roses may be fed 

 with liquid manure, or use fertilisers. Roses attacked with green-fly will need syringing 

 with soapy or tobacco water, and in wet seasons, should mildew show itself, dust over 

 with dry sulphur. Use a small hoe freely between growing plants to keep down weeds. 

 All creepers will need attention for a time to keep them in place, as those on buildings 

 will grow unwieldy. 



Vegetables. In this portion of the garden the beginner will now be having a good 

 supply of Cabbage. Cauliflower and early Peas should now be turning in ; to make provision 

 for sowing more of such kinds as were advised last month, or in poor soils the early 

 kinds may be sown now to give late supplies. Ashleaf Potatoes will now be ready to lift 

 for daily use, but the bulk will benefit by being left a little longer in the soil. Celery, 

 Vegetable Marrows, and any other tender plants should be planted ; also Tomatoes and 

 Cucumbers. Tomatoes, either on walls or stakes, should be trained to one main growth, 

 and not given a too rich root run ; far better feed from the surface when fruits are formed. 

 Lettuce should be sown for later use, and in dry soils sow very thinly in drills to save 

 transplanting, merely thinning out the rows. Endive, a very beautiful salad plant, may 

 be sown for early supplies, but in dry hot weather defer sowing until July. Runner Beans 

 should be staked neatly, giving the stakes a crossbar support. Plant out all kinds of green 

 vegetables for autumn, winter, and spring supplies. Sow Coleworts for October and 



