620 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 



black, the bark dies, and this is generally followed by the exudation of gum. From this 

 it would appear that the sap vessels having been ruptured, strangulation at that point 

 results, and the growth above, being cut off from further support, perishes. In the case 

 of strong growing trees lift them and rearrange the roots, bringing the latter nearer the 

 surface. Place fresh strong loam about them, the only addition required being old 

 mortar, and then ram the whole firm. 



Although, as pointed out, gumming may be the result in the first instance of indiffe- 

 rent root action, coupled with what may be termed frost-bite, it generally follows wounds 

 or abrasions of the bark. How do these abrasions occur ? Seeing the evil which follows, 

 how careful one should be in avoiding them. 



A wound to the bark is easily produced by the use of shreds that are too short, and 

 which will not allow for the free swelling of the various shoots for at least a year. No- 

 part of the tree should ever be allowed to press hard against the brickwork. Look over 

 the trees frequently during the growing season to free any shoot that is likely to become 

 too closely encircled by the shreds or matting. 



Hedges of Flowering Shrubs. It often happens that some kind of hedge is wanted 

 in a garden, either as a screen to hide vegetable ground, or as a wind break or some kind 

 of partition. When this is the case it is a good plan to plant hardy flowering shrubs 

 about 4 feet apart, and to so train them that they grow into a compact hedge, 

 and yet have enough lateral play to allow them to flower. Such a hedge is not only- 

 ornamental, but it yields endless material for cutting. It should be allowed to grow 

 quite 4 feet thick, and is best formed with a backbone of stiff woody shrubs, such as 

 Guelder Roses, Ribes, and Lilac, while between the stiffer shrubs might be some that are 

 weaker, such as Kerria, Rhodotypos, and Leycesteria. Plants of rank, rambling growth, 

 such as the free Roses or double-flowered Brambles, Aristolochia, Wistaria, Virginian 

 Creeper, and the rambling Honeysuckles, are not in place in such a hedge ; they are 

 more suitable for rough hedge banks, walls, or for arbour and pergola ; the flower hedge 

 wants true shrubs. The bush Honeysuckles, such as Lonicera fragrantissima and 

 L. tatarica, are just right, or any woody, twiggy bushes either of moderate growth, or 

 such as are amenable to pruning or thinning, such as Deutzia and Snowberry, shrubs that 

 so often get overgrown in a shrubbery. In the hedge these would do well, as they could 

 be easily watched and thinned, also any of the many true shrubs that flower all the better 

 for reasonable pruning. Any one would be surprised to see what a quantity of useful 

 flowers such a hedge will yield, while if there is another of foliage for winter use it will be 

 invaluable to the indoor decorator, using such shrubs as the Scotch Golden Holly, Golden 

 Euonymus, Golden Privet, the variegated Eurya latifolia, yellow variegated Box, 

 Cassiniafulvida, and Golden Tree Ivy, all shrubs of the utmost value for winter cuttings. 

 Other flower hedges are delightful possessions. Hedges of China Rose, of Sweet-briar, 

 of old garden Roses, or of climbing and rambling Roses trained down, of Honeysuckle, 

 of Jasmine some of these are occasionally seen ; but a good selection of true hedge shrubs 

 is rarely, if ever, made. Any of the shrubs recommended for the mixed flowering hedge 

 could, of course, be used alone, and excellent would it be to have a hedge of Guelder Rose, 

 or of flowering Currant or Japanese Quince, and how much more interesting than the 

 plain hedge of Quick or Privet or Holly. Both sides of the hedge should be easily acces- 

 sible ; not necessarily by a hard path, but by a space just wide enough to go along 

 comfortably. An additional advantage well worth considering would be that, supposing 

 the direction of the hedge was east and west, the south side would flower in advance of 

 the north, and so prolong the supply of bloom. 



Sweet Briars as Exposed Hedges. The Common Briar makes an excellent hedge. 

 It is very hardy, and as the plants are raised from seed there is no trouble from wild 

 suckers, such as one experiences now and then with budded plants of Lord Penzance's 

 hybrid Sweet Briars, which make delightful hedges. The most brillant crimson is Anne 

 of Gierstein. Other good kinds are Amy Robsart (pink), and Lady Penzance (coppery 

 yellow) ; the last mentioned is not quite so free as the others. All have fragrant foliage, 

 and produce showy fruits in autumn. The Sweet Briar revels in a good, deep loamy 

 soil, inclined to clay, but before planting the ground must be trenched, incorporating with 

 the soil well-decayed farmyard manure, and a little old mortar and burnt garden refuse if 

 procurable. Plant between October and April. Do not plant very large bushes of the 

 Sweet Briar. Those from 2 feet to 3 feet in height are strong enough. One year after 

 planting cut them down to within 12 inches or 15 inches of the ground ; the subsequent 

 treatment consists in removing dead and crowded growths in autumn, and pruning rather 

 severely three or four years to induce strong, new growth. A good watering now and 

 then during the summer with diluted stable or cowyard drainings forms an excellent 

 stimulant for these and other Roses used as hedge plants. 



Hot-bed. In making a hot-bed, either for forcing vegetables, growing Melons 

 or Cucumbers, or raising annual flowers, the first thing to be considered is the pre- 

 paration of the materials. These should consist of leaves and stable litter in equal 



