A ROMAN SAUCE. 185 



by the blaze of fires. They are cleaned, salted, and ex- 

 ported in small barrels. 



Anchovy sauce, as a condiment, is very popular on our 

 modern tables ; and anchovies, it is said, were used by 

 the Romans in the preparation of their celebrated garum, 

 a seasoning of which they were strangely fond. Origin- 

 ally, this would seem to have been a shrimp sauce ; but 

 it was subsequently made of the intestines of anchovies, 

 sardines, sprats, or almost any fish, macerated in water, 

 and saturated with salt. As soon as symptoms of putre- 

 faction appeared, a little parsley and vinegar were added 

 and the sauce was complete. The Romans, however, 

 were fond of " miscellaneous feeding," to judge from the 

 following directions for preparing the accessories of a 

 banquet, given in Horace's " Satires," ii. 4 : 



" Simplex e dulci constat olivo 

 Quod pingui miscere mero muriaque decebit, 

 Non alia quam qua Byzantia putuit orca. 

 Hoc ubi confusum sectis inferbuit herbis 

 Corycioque croco sparsum stetit, insuper addes 

 Pressa Venafranse quod bacca remisit olivee 

 Picenis cedunt pomis Tiburtia succo ; 

 Nam facie prsestant. Venucula convenit ollis, 

 Rectius Albanam fumo duraveris uvam. 

 Hanc ego cum malis, ego faecem primus et allec, 

 Primus et invenior piper album cum sale nigro 

 Incretum puris circumposuisse catillis." 



[That is : It is worth while to master thoroughly the qualities of compound 

 sauce. The simple consists of sweet olive oil ; which should be mixed with 

 rich wine, and with the same pickle of which the Byzantine jar smells so 

 strongly.* When this has been made to boil with a mixture of chopped herbs, 

 and has been allowed to cool, after Cilician saffron has been sprinkled over it, 

 then do you add besides the oil of the pressed berry of the Venafrum olive. 

 The fruit of Tibur is inferior in juice, but superior in appearance, to that of 

 Picenum. The grape of Venucula is good for preserving in jars ; the Alban 

 is best when thoroughly smoked. On inquiry you will find that I the first of 

 all men placed round the table on clean dishes this kind of grape, together 

 with apples, lees, and fish-pickle, white pepper sprinkled through a sieve, and 

 black salt. ] 



* A pungent, malodorous pickle made from the tunny-fish. 



