GLACIER PARK 49 



side Two Medicine Lake on the eastward side of the 

 range. How romantic its name, to the American who 

 from earliest boyhood has thrilled to the tales of trap- 

 pers and Indians ! Rising Wolf was the Indian title for 

 Hugh Monroe, an Englishman born in Montreal in 

 1798, and probably the first white man to behold these 

 mountains. He was a trapper for the Hudson Bay 

 Company, married a Blackfoot squaw, and spent most 

 of his long life in this region, dying in 1896 and resting 

 now beside the Two Medicine River, under the shadow 

 of that great red rock pile which bears his name, a 

 pyramid such as no Pharaoh ever dreamed. Almost 

 9,000 feet in height, standing free of the range to its 

 base, four-square and self-sufficient, with the curve of 

 infinity over its doming summit, old Rising Wolf 

 sentinels the Great Divide, the Mousilauke of the 

 Rockies, the promise of that benignant sweetness and 

 splendid spaciousness which is to come. 



By riding thus free of the range, too, we gained an 

 insight into its topography. Possibly others are not 

 like me, but I fancy many are. For my part, at least, I 

 cannot be happy in a new country till I know, as we 

 Yankees say, "how the land lays." First I must know 

 which is north and which is south, and if I arrive by 

 night, or get turned about on the train, I am miserable 

 till the compass directions are straightened out in my 

 mind. Once, I recall, a perverse sun rose for three days 

 in the west, till I got a map and went carefully over my 



