GRAPE PRUNING AND TRAINING 309 



gummy-resinous formation to be the direct result of wounding 

 (though there are degenerative changes). The fungi are apparently 

 a secondary feature which, however, may spread the injury to por- 

 tions of the wood distant from the original points of the injury. 



Cuts should always be made with sharp shears in such a way 

 as to prevent cracking and splitting. This may be avoided by hold- 

 ing the shears so as not to bend the part at or below the point of 

 cutting. Canes to be cut for spurs should never be cut at right 

 angles to the grain, but at a slight angle. To do this best the blade 

 of the shears should be placed against the vine part that is to remain 

 and the cut made upward. On this subject Bioletti presents 

 Fig. 285 and the following discussion :* 



In spur pruning it is considered best to cut through the bud above 

 the last one that it is desired to have grow, as at C in Fig. 285. This 

 leaves the woody diaphragm intact and protects the spur from in- 

 jury. If the spur is cut at C t a long piece of internode is left, ex- 

 posing the pith. As this pith dries and shrinks it allows water to 

 enter and forms an excellent place for molds to grow which may 

 destroy the bud below. It requires some skill and practice to cut 

 exactly in the right place, and if by mistake the cut is made just be- 

 low the diaphragm the breeding place for molds has its maximum 

 size. For this reason most pruners make the cut at C 2 about half 

 an inch above the last bud. If the shears are sharp and the cut made 

 at an angle of about 45 behind the bud, no injury results. 



In removing a piece of old wood at the base of a spur or fruit 

 cane it is best to leave a little projecting stub. Too close cutting 

 in this case is apt to injure the spur or cane. The projecting stub 

 can be removed the following year, when the spur has grown larger, 

 withDut danger of injury. 



220. Vine pruning tools. When vines are properly 

 pruned annually the pruner will rarely need a tool 

 stronger than the single hand shears (Fig. 110), of which 

 there are many styles. Some pruners prefer French, 

 others Swiss patterns, but any shears that will hold a 

 keen edge well, are of moderate weight and fit the hand 

 well will do good work. Only when arms must be re- 

 placed will the double hand shears (Fig. 114) or the saw 

 be needed. Most pruners prefer the saw to the double 

 hand shears for heavy work. The double hand shears 

 are open to the objection that they split or otherwise in- 

 jure the part to be left. Many pruners prefer that the 

 saw shall have a curved rather than a straight blade. 



221. Trellis construction. The most popular support 



* California Bulletin 241. 



