378 FPLAXD SIIOOTIXG. 



It should be remembered that a dog hunts and points 

 by natural instinct, and only needs to be trained to 

 adjust his movements to those of his master. 



With only such training as is needed to make any 

 kind of dog fit for a companion or guard, your pointer 

 or setter becomes a useful ally in the field. 



I would rather pay a trainer $100 to teach my pup to 

 come quickly when called, stop instantly when ordered, 

 and walk quietly at heel, than to get him "well broken" 

 (as the thing is usually done) "free of charge, and a 

 chromo thrown in." 



HINTS ON AMATEUR TRAINING. 



While not pretending to rival the instructions given by 

 Waters, Hammond, and other eminent trainers, I can 

 assure the sportsman that, if he has the gift to handle a 

 dog at all, he can, by following the ensuing few direc- 

 tions, bring a green puppy into sufficient training to be 

 useful in the field in a week's time, with not very long 

 daily lessons. 



The same system, with a little more vigorous use of the 

 spike-collar, will do for bringing a recalcitrant old dog to 

 a sense of his duty. 



Begin by teaching your dog to come, to go, and to stop at 

 command. Have a stout check-cord sixty or eighty feet 

 long, and tie both ends to his collar a spike-collar with 

 blunt points, if the animal is so self-willed as to require 

 punishment. This will subdue without terrifying him 

 out of his senses, as a whip does. 



Plant a smooth, round stake in the ground (a broom or 

 hoe handle will do), and pass the cord over it. Now take 

 a position as far from the stake as the cord will allow, 

 holding the latter loosely in your hand. The dog can 

 now come and go easily, the cord running around the 

 stake as through a pulley; and you can pull him in either 



