HANDBOOK OF MOSSES. 



little fine mould into the open spaces. I then water them 

 overhead with a fine rose. For mosses of this description 

 little water is necessary ; and it ought never to be applied 

 until the leaves begin to collapse, and even then with a 

 sparing hand. They should then be placed in a cool, shady 

 situation, and in six or eight weeks they will be attached to 

 the stones. The mould being first removed by means of a 

 gentle run of water, the pots are 

 then placed in a more airy and ex- 

 posed situation." And speaking of 

 a really more difficult class of mosses, 

 he says : " All varieties which partake 

 of the same trailing habit as Hypnum 

 prcelonguni) should not be planted, 

 but laid upon the mould; three or 

 four small pegs will prevent them from 

 being moved. In the course of a few 

 weeks, the pegs will be covered with 

 a mass of green foliage." My own 

 plan has been to bring home a good 

 mass of these plants with plenty of 

 soil, to lay them upon the earth of 

 the rockery, and pat them down well 

 with a spade ; this of course makes 

 them dirty for a time, but a shower 

 of rain soon remedies that. I have 

 found that covering the newly trans- 

 planted mosses with peg lattice has 

 been a great help against the at- 

 tacks of small birds, who are very apt to ruthlessly root up 

 these plants without some such protection. 



Aquatic species, such as Fontinalis antipyretica or Cincli- 

 dotus, can only be grown in water, and in these cases I think 

 it is imperative that a portion of the stone or wood to which 

 they are attached should be removed with them. I have, 

 however, grown Fontinalis for a season, well, without any 

 attachment. 



A few hints as to some of the more easily obtained and 

 cultivated mosses may be of interest. 



FIG. 38. Atrichum 

 undulatum, natural size. 



