44 LAKE SUPERIOR 



the rapids, which is one of the favorite amusements 

 of the adventurous. This can be made as dangerous 

 as desirable, according to the selection of route, 

 either near shore, where there is only the chance of 

 an upset and a few bruises, or through the centre, 

 where it is certain death. We chose a middle 

 course, but as near the centre as our guides, who 

 were not venturesome, would go. Crossing over 

 above the broken water to the American shore, the 

 large, high-sided, but fragile canoe was headed down 

 stream, giving us a view of the prospect before us. 

 Great ridges of white foam stretched at intervals 

 almost from shore to shore, while the darker water 

 was broken into heavy waves, curling up stream and 

 ready to pour into the boat as it should rush down- 

 wards through them. At first the canoe settled 

 gently, making us plainly feel that we were going 

 down hill ; then it gathered way as the current in- 

 creased, and went plunging on its course. The 

 waves flew from our bow or leaped over in upon us, 

 the rocks glided by racing up stream, whirlpools 

 twisted us from side to side ; we sprang over tiny 

 cascades or darted down slopes deep and dark, or 

 shallow and feathery white with foam ; we rushed 

 upon rocks where inevitable destruction seemed 

 awaiting us, and the shore, trees, and houses went 

 tearing by ; past the little island at the head of the 

 rapids, past the main fall, through foam and spray, 

 we dashed headlong, till the few minutes required 

 for the entire descent being exhausted, we glided 

 calmly and quietly into the water below. 



