LAPLAND. 77 



gamekeeper's old leather gaiter; and when the 

 river opened we tasted nothing but fish until the 

 young ducks came in. Fresh meat such as beef 

 or mutton we never saw. It is true the fish 

 were of the best kind trout, charr, and gwynniad ; 

 and, doubtless, a London alderman would vote 

 such a bill of fare as "none so bad;" but, toujourx 

 perdrix. Moreover, everything was plain boiled, 

 and we scarcely ever got a vegetable. A good 

 cook might have made something out of such 

 materials ; but condiments of all kinds, save salt, 

 were wanting; and I should strongly recommend 

 every English traveller who visits these remote 

 regions to bring up with him a little Cayenne 

 pepper and a bottle of "Burgess's Original;" 

 and, above all, if he be a smoker, to provide him- 

 self with some real cavendish before leaving Eng- 

 land, for, of all the bad tobacco which I ever 

 smoked, that which we procured at Quickiock was 

 the worst in fact, the Swedish tobacco in general, 

 although cheap, is not good ; for you must put up 

 either with a sort of stuff which has no real tobacco 

 flavour, but smokes like chopped hay, or with a 

 strong, rank, roll tobacco, such as the peasants 

 chew and smoke. We had plenty of good coffee 

 (with excellent milk and cream) ; and this and 

 cold water certainly the clearest and purest I 

 ever drank in my life formed our " every- day 



