spring, or fall previous tp planting. Few soils will give the best results 

 without the use of manure or fertiliser of some kind, and if the manure can 

 be applied to the land at least, once a year before it is to be used for the 

 strawberries, it will decompose and will be in a suitable condition to yield 

 up this plant food. 



. PLANTS. 



All strawberry-growers are aware that it is only the plants formed by 

 the runners that should be used for the new plantation ; these have yellowish 

 white roots, and can thus be distinguished from the other plants, which have 

 a long stem, at the lower end of which are black or brown roots, many of 

 which are dead or broken. If plants of good quality, which can be depended 

 upon to give large crops, are desired, those selected for planting should have 

 good crowns and well developed roots. As a rule, only the first plants on 

 the runners should be used. When the plants are allowed to layer freely, a 

 large number of weak sets are produced, and although these will grow they 

 give a small yield, and the practice, if persisted in, will result in the running 

 out of the variety. 



The best plants can be secured from fields that have been grown but 

 one year, and which have not as yet fruited. The practice of obtaining 

 plants from old plantations, although used by many persons, is not a good 

 one, as continued fruiting cannot fail to sap the vitality of the plants and 

 the runners produced by them will not give as good results as those from 

 young plants. Whatever method of digging the plants is used, whether by 

 spade, fork or potato hook, care should be taken that they are not exposed to 

 the drying action of the sun or wind, and as soon as dug they should be placed 

 in baskets, boxes or bags, and after being moistened should be put where they 

 <?an be kept fresh and prevented from wilting. 



PLANTING. 



Where the plants are being set, equal care should bo taken that the 

 roots are not exposed. If the soil has been so worked that a dust mulch has 

 been provided, the soil that will be in contact with the roots will ordinarily 

 have a sufficient amount of moisture, and watering will not be necessary, but 

 should the soil be dry, a pint or so of water should be given each plant 

 before the planting has been completed; this will permit of the drawing of 

 .soil about it after the water has soaked in, and the baking of the soil about 

 the plant, which otherwise might happen, will be prevented. In setting the 

 plants, a spade, dibble or trowel may be used, and if the work is properly 

 clone there will be little difference in the result secured. When the dibble 

 or spade is used, a cut is made in the ground to the depth of 6 to 8 inches, 

 and the soil is pressed back in either direction by a side movement of the 

 handle; in the opening thus formed the roots are placed, care being taken 

 that they are not cramped and that they are so spread out that the soil can 

 be brought in contact with each of them. When large plants, with a thick 

 mat of roots, are used, this is particularly necessary, as otherwise the soil 

 would only be in contact with a layer of roots upon the outside of this bundle 

 and the inner roots will become dry and the plant will wilt. There is also 

 considerable danger of loss if attention is not given to the depth at which 



