222 HENRY HILL GOODELL 



From the far-off, isolated hamlets of the East he gathers 

 up and brings down to the seaport towns, or to the few 

 through which a railway passes, the products of the country, 

 and returns laden with the merchandise of Europe. Awk- 

 ward beyond description, with his short body and long neck 

 and legs, moving noiselessly over the ground with his soft- 

 padded feet, you wonder, and yet shrink from him. Dia- 

 bolical in expression, he is ugliness personified. 



In the breeds of cattle there is room for great improve- 

 ment. There are none of superior breed; and beef of good 

 quality is not to be found in Turkey. The best quality, 

 which is imported, is from South Russia. Until the time of 

 the Crimean War such a thing as beefsteak was hardly 

 known. It was mutton, mutton everywhere. Well do we 

 remember the first morsel of steak we ever tasted. It was 

 fried in a frying-pan, done till there was n't a drop of juice 

 in it, and came up garnished with garlic and onions, and 

 covered over with parsley. But what a flavor it possessed ! 

 "Something original and authentic," as Howells puts it, 

 " mingled with vague reminiscences of canal-boat travel and 

 woodland camp." Like the Englishman "who had no pre- 

 judices," from that moment I hated mutton. 



The ox is small and hardy, but for heavy draft the buffalo 

 is in constant use. This ugly-looking animal, whose para- 

 dise is a mud-hole, into which he can sink with the excep- 

 tion of his mouth and eyes, is very powerful. The female 

 gives a milk that is rich, though somewhat strong and odor- 

 ous. The manufacture of butter is infamously bad. The 

 churns used are of various kinds. Earthen jars, shaped like 

 a barrel, swelling in the centre, are rilled with cream and 

 then tilted up and down. The trunk of a tree, hollowed out 



