CONTENTS. XV 



chenmo A treacherous ford The Kugrang glen The kiang 

 Antelopes A bewildered buck Completely "pumped" 

 The " tsos," or Tibetan antelope Unpleasant effects of rarefied 

 air The native's idea concerning them Striking scenery 

 The dong, or wild yak Tibetan fox Stalking a dong Yak 

 beef A snowy night and a cheerless morning Boortze" the 

 chief fuel of Tibet A Tartar breakfast Hair-cutting with a 

 knife Tibetan hares Trout-like fish We celebrate our meet- 

 ing with Captain Basevi A rare menu Basevi's sad fate, . 294 



CHAPTER XIX. 



The Ovis Ammon The Pangong lake A joyless solitude 

 Loneliness Lukkur's escapade The cause of it A long and 

 lucky shot The lord of the flock is left behind Black wolf 

 Tibetan marmot Limit of vegetation in Tibet Oves Ammon 

 ground Two big rams sighted A contretemps How I blessed 

 the author of it More big rams Their extreme wariness 

 Two hours' patience Half-baked in the sun A stormy morn- 

 ing More beauties in sight A long and trying stalk The 

 obstacles encountered in it What could have scared the flock ? 

 We come up with it again A drive is attempted Its result 

 Misplaced confidence Black wild dogs, . . . 327 



CHAPTER XX. 



Ferrying the Indus Mountains of jasper Hanle* and its mon- 

 astery A Lama abbot The " goa " and its haunts Ab- 

 , normal rainfall Its effect on Tibetan game "Goa" Two 

 bucks descried Result of forgetting to load The Chinese 

 border An interview with the borderers Their behaviour 

 A curious incident A lucky right-and-left Great variety of 

 wiM-Hd\\ -i-i-rt Mfut a brother sportsman Packs of sand-grouse 

 The Tso Morari Its characteristics Wild geese A solitary 

 disciple of St Hubert Twelve degrees of frost in August The 

 Tso Kar or Salt Lake Its fresh-water neighbour Wild-fowl 

 A blanket city Brood of enow-pheasants A snowy waste 

 Valley of the Parang The Parang la Across it in a snow- 

 in Kinlurance of the yak A ludicrous picture The 

 Miiiimit at hwt Nature's awful works A surgical operation 

 The napoo or burrell Two killnl Inmu n~r rl.ii i.-rs Sj.iti 

 I>i]'d9 and <|uadrupe<ls Kulu scenery Ku-ti. beauties 

 Hi-turn t<> civilisation An old but intm-Ming newspaper 

 Kan>;ra valli-y The end of a long join in \ . . 345 



