122 FIRST GLIMPSE OF " THE VALE.' 



Xor can any one with an eye for the beautiful look un- 

 moved on the charming scene that suddenly presents itself as 

 he reaches the brow of the hill, whence the road slopes gently 

 down to the pretty village of Baramoola. 1 How changed is the 

 river Jhelum now looking smooth and bright as burnished 

 metal where, as it winds tortuously over the green expanse 

 lying below, it resembles a huge silver serpent issuing from 

 the Woolar lake lying dark and blue along the base of the 

 distant snow-crested mountains, among which square-topped 

 Haramook towers like a hoary old giant above his smaller 

 dependants. And the numerous hamlets that are dotted over 

 the verdant plain, what pleasing features of the landscape 

 they present, as they lie embowered among groves of walnut 

 and poplar trees, and grand old chenars (oriental plane), 

 which latter, with their pale grey trunks, and summer foliage 

 of brilliant green, constitute one of the principal ornaments of 

 the Cashmere valley. 



Before us, at last, lay the far-famed " Vale of Cashmere." 

 There was music in the very name, which to our youthful 

 minds conveyed ideas of the "nightingale's hymn," "love- 

 lighted eyes," and everything enchanting. And, truly, no- 

 where could a spot have been more aptly chosen for a poetic 

 romance than the scene of " the feast of roses." There is, 

 however, a dark side to the picture of this lovely vale, for the 

 fearful epidemics, famines, fires, and earthquakes with which, 

 during my own recollection, it has so often been visited, and 

 in some instances partially devastated, tend to show that it is 

 not always a " valley of bliss." But I am wasting time in 

 thus descanting on the charms and woes of a country that is 

 now so well known. 



We did not give ourselves up very long to romantic ideas 

 about the vale, as our thoughts were just then centred more 

 in the ibex on its neighbouring mountains so, having hired 

 two of the picturesque-looking boats of the country at Bara- 



1 Since then earthquakes have, I am told, made sad havoc with this place. 



