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CHAPTER XVIII. 



START FOR LADAK THE BEAUTIFUL SIND VALLEY THE ZOZZI LA (PASS) 

 SUDDEN CHANGE OF SCENERY DRAS BRIGHT COLOURING OF THE 

 MOUNTAINS TIBETAN POLO BUDDHIST CHORTANS LAMA MONKS 

 AND THEIR MONASTERY SACRED MUSIC THE SHAPPOO TIBETAN 

 IRRIGATION THE CAPITAL OF LADAK BURNING SUN AND VARIA- 

 TIONS OF TEMPERATURE JOIN A BROTHER SPORTSMAN BUDDHIST 

 MANES CROSS THE CHANG LA THE HIMALAYAN AND TIBETAN 

 PERPETUAL-SNOW LINES TANKSEE OUR GUIDE CHANGTER CHEAP 

 MUTTON TARTAR CHARACTER ALABASTER CLIFFS VIEW OF THE 

 PANGONG TSO (LAKE) CLEARNESS OF TIBETAN ATMOSPHERE ACROSS 

 THE MARSEMIK LA "CHUNG" AND "GRIM" OVES AMMON IN SIGHT 

 CHANGCHENMO A TREACHEROUS FORD THE KUGRANG GLEN THE 

 KIANG ANTELOPES A BEWILDERED BUCK COMPLETELY "PUMPED" 

 THE "TSOS," OR TIBETAN ANTELOPE UNPLEASANT EFFECTS OF 

 RAREFIED AIR THE NATIVE'S IDEA CONCERNING THEM STRIKING 

 SCENERY THE DONG, OR WILD YAK TIBETAN FOX STALKING A 



DONG YAK BEEF A SNOWY NIGHT AND A CHEERLESS MORNING 



BOORTZE" THE CHIEF FUEL OF TIBET A TARTAR BREAKFAST HAIR- 

 CUTTING WITH A KNIFE TIBETAN HARES TROUT -LIKE FISH WE 

 CELEBRATE OUR MEETING WITH CAPTAIN BASEVI A RARE MENU 

 BASEVI'S SAD FATE. 



THE following endeavour to recount some hunting experiences 

 in Tibet will by no means represent what may be termed a 

 competition-bag of game, which, in these days of competition 

 in everything, seems, sad to say, often to be thought almost 

 the main object in shooting. Nevertheless, I trust it may 

 afford the reader some idea of what the writer considered real 

 wild sport in a very strange land. 



On a first visit to the dreary inhospitable region north and 



