296 ACROSS THE ZOZZI LA. 



birch, and grey snow-capped crags, and the clear bracing air 

 is redolent with the perfume of innumerable wild flowers. 



A long and laborious climb of an hour and a half up a 

 very steep and savagely wild gorge filled with deep snow, 

 takes us to the summit of the Zozzi la 1 (pass), 11,300 feet 

 high, and flanked by glaciers and towering white peaks. 

 Here the track leads for miles over almost continuous snow- 

 fields, and for some part of the way beside a deep extensive 

 tarn, which, when frozen over and concealed by the winter 

 snow, is, we are told, the scene of many a fatal disaster from 

 the treacherous crust falling in. Farther on, where the ground 

 becomes more free from snow, we are often saluted by the 

 chirping whistle of a marmot, sitting erect on some green 

 knoll, ere he dives into his burrow at our approach. 



What a sudden and marvellous change takes place in the 

 aspect of the scenery as we descend gradually to the district 

 of Dras, with its high sterile hills of the generally rounded 

 form, and strangely bright and varied colouring, so char- 

 acteristic of Tibetan landscapes ! After crossing a narrow 

 wooden bridge, where a few years later a British traveller, 

 Mr Cowie, lost his life by falling into the wild torrent below 

 it, when rashly attempting to ride over it, we encamp beside 

 an old fort garrisoned by a small detachment of Cashmere 

 soldiers. 



At Lotsum we find a well-kept polo-ground, with a sub- 

 stantial covered stand for spectators, from whence the gentle 

 sex of the land, we are informed, are wont to view the game 

 of shuggrun as it is here called, which has from time imme- 

 morial been as popular here as it has lately become elsewhere. 

 The palm of victory awarded by the fair dames is usually a 

 good fat sheep. 



Past Shargol, where we observe evidences of Buddhism in 

 a quaint Lama hermitage, built into the perpendicular face 



1 "La" is the Tibetan term for a pass over a range of mountains, as 

 "ghat" is the Himalayan. 



