A BUDDHIST MONASTERY. 297 



of a cliff rising above the village. Here are also to be seen 

 several oblong-shaped constructions like huge tombs, called 

 chortans, on which the most uncouth and horrid -visaged 

 deities or demons are depicted in the brightest of hues, 

 vermilion predominating. They are intended, we are told, to 

 mark the burial-places of sainted Buddhists. 



At Moolbek we pitch our camp at an elevation of only 

 4000 feet, below an isolated eminence picturesquely sur- 

 mounted by a gompa or Buddhist monastery. Over the Na- 

 mika la and Fotu la, both more than 13,000 feet, but with 

 easy gradients and not a vestige of snow, to Lamayuru. At 

 this place the Lama monks, in full canonicals, turn out on 

 the flat roof of their monastery and salute us with discordant 

 music, performed on a variety of barbarous instruments, con- 

 sisting chiefly of long brazen horns, gongs, and drums. 



In the cool of the evening for a Tibetan sun is scorching 

 we climb up to visit the monastery, which is perched high 

 on a spur rising immediately above the village. The Bud- 

 dhist monks show a considerable amount of taste in selecting 

 sites for their gompas, which are often built on some pictur- 

 esque eminence. At the entrance we are met and ushered 

 into the principal sanctum by a venerable Lama, who, we 

 suppose, holds the position of abbot among the brotherhood. 

 Here a most indescribable scene presents itself. About a score 

 of Lamas, with shaven heads and attired in loose woollen 

 robes of a dirty purple hue, are at their devotions. They 

 sit in two rows facing each other. Some are blowing and 

 thumping away on the afore-mentioned instruments, whilst 

 others perform a monotonous chant in the profoundest of 

 bass voices, as they tell the beads of their rosaries. Around 

 are idols of every size, shape, and colour ; rotating cylindrical 

 prayer-wheels, from the size of beer-barrels downwards ; and 

 an endless variety of other articles used by the Buddhists in 

 the performance of their religious rites. The walls are deco- 

 rated with banners, confused hieroglyphics, and innumerable 



