LARGE TROOPS OF KIANG. 433 



fleeted heat and daezling white glare of noon, that it seemed 

 almost as though it belonged to some other and less beautiful 

 world. 



From here we worked over ground where Puddoo had made 

 certain of finding Oms Ammon, but unfortunately we found it 

 occupied by flocks of Oves Tartar and goats instead. Out on 

 a big plateau we saw two unusually large troops of kiang 

 one of some fifty, and the other of about thirty animals. 

 The serried cavalcades would trot up towards us, and sud- 

 denly halt within 150 yards or so, and after standing there 

 snorting and gazing wistfully at us for a few moments, wheel 

 about, as if by word of command, and careering round in a 

 wide circle, return again and again to perform the same 

 manoeuvre, ere galloping away for good and disappearing 

 over some neighbouring rise. 



Next day being Sunday, we were glad of a much-needed 

 rest, not only for our weary limbs, but for relief to my face 

 and hands, which were almost raw from the combined 

 effects of biting wind and scorching sun. When that abom- 

 inable blast happened not to be blowing, which was seldom, 

 the climate at this place was simply perfect in the shade, 

 although the cold at night was bitter as usual. Watching the 

 proceedings of a colony of grey marmots (here called " pheea "), 

 not far from my tent, was quite an interesting pastime. 



From Dongpu we had a long and weary tramp among the 

 broken ground and deep ravines lying between it and the 

 Sutlej. The one satisfaction I derived from going there was 

 a good view of that river from the heights immediately above 

 it here a rapid flood of muddy snow-water, rolling along 

 a desolate and verdureless valley between stony undulating 

 hills. Almost directly below us I could see, spanning the 

 stream, a wooden bridge, which only made me more fully 

 realise the disappointing fact of my being debarred from so 

 easily visiting the country beyond it, where bunchowr (wild 

 yak) and other Tibetan game were said to abound. The wild 



2E 



