238 THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMAGE. 



used to be extremely numerous : Barthema states 

 that when he was at Mecca it had 64,000 camels. 

 In 1814, it consisted principally of Mohammed Ali's 

 troops, with very few pilgrims ; but in 1816, a single 

 grandee of Cairo joined the haj with 110 camels for 

 the transport of his baggage and retinue; and his tra- 

 velling-expenses alone, Burckhardt supposes, could 

 not have been less than 10,000. The wife of AH 

 had a truly royal equipage, comprehending 500 

 beasts of burden. The tents of the public- women and 

 dancing-girls were among the most splendid in this 

 caravan. Females are not excluded from performing 

 the pilgrimage; but the law prescribes that they shall 

 be married women, and accompanied by their hus- 

 bands or some very near relation. Rich old widows, 

 and such as lose their husbands by the way, are 

 provided with delfts or guides, who facilitate their 

 progress through the sacred territory, and act also in 

 a matrimonial capacity ; but these unions are only 

 temporary, and at the conclusion of their devotions 

 the man must divorce his companion, otherwise the 

 marriage would be considered binding. 



There is one distinction formerly common to all 

 large caravans, but now used only by the Syrian 

 and Egyptian ; each of these has its holy camel, 

 carrying on its back the mahmal with presents 

 for the Kaaba, and which also serves the purpose 

 of a sign or banner to their respective companies. 

 This appendage is minutely described by Maun- 

 drell and D'Ohsson as a high hollow wooden frame, 

 in the shape of a cone, having a pyramidal top co- 

 vered with fine silk brocade, and adorned with 

 ostrich-feathers. A small book of prayers and 

 charms is placed in the middle, wrapped up in a 



