242 THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMAGE. 



with the right hand, or kissed, if the pressure of the 

 crowd will admit. The devotee then performs the 

 towaf, keeping the Kaaba on his left hand; this cere- 

 mony, which was done by the Pagan Arabs in a state 

 of nudity, is repeated seven times, the three first in 

 a quick pace, in imitation of the Prophet ; each cir- 

 cuit is accompanied with prescribed prayers and a 

 salutation of the black stone. This done, after a 

 few more rikats, he proceeds to the Zemzem Well, 

 in honour of which he addresses some pious ejacu- 

 lations, and then drinks as much water as he wishes 

 or can get. Some have it poured over them in 

 bucketfuls, " and then," says Barthema, " the fools 

 think their sins are washed into the well." Others 

 swallow it so unreasonably, that they lie for hours 

 extended on the pavement, while their flesh breaks 

 out into pimples ; and this, as Pitts wittily remarks, 

 they call ' ' the purging of their spiritual corruptions." 

 These are the different ceremonies observed within 

 the Temple, which the pilgrims repeat after their 

 guides. 



The next ceremony that the hajji has to per- 

 form is the sai, or holy walk between Safa and 

 Meroua; which is done along a level street about six 

 hundred paces in length, and terminated at each end 

 by a stone platform covered with open arches, and 

 ascended by a flight of steps. This perambulation, 

 which for a short space must be run, is to be repeated 

 seven times; prayers are incessantly recited in a 

 loud voice ; and on the two platforms the face must 

 be turned to the mosque. A third ceremony is that 

 of shaving the head ; and the barbers, whose shops 

 abound in the vicinity of Meroua, during the ope-, 

 ration utter a particular prayer, which the hajjis 

 repeat after them. This religious tonsure is follow- 



