248 THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMAGE. 



at intervals of every four or five minutes he paused, 

 and stretched forth his arms to implore blessings on 

 his hearers j while the congregation around and be- 

 fore him waved the skirts of their ihrams over 

 their heads, and rent the air with shouts of " Le- 

 beik, Allahuma, lebeik !" (Here we are at thy com- 

 mands, O God!) During the wavings of the white 

 garments by the dense crowd, the side of the moun- 

 tain had the appearance of a cataract of water, and 

 the green umbrellas of the myriads of hajjis sitting 

 on their camels, below bore some resemblance to a 

 verdant lawn. The sermon lasted nearly three 

 hours, during which the cadi was constantly wip- 

 ing his eyes ; for the law enjoins the preacher to be 

 moved with feelings of compunction, and to consider 

 tears as evidence that he is divinely illuminated, 

 and that his prayers are acceptable. 



The effect of this scene upon the audience was 

 extremely various. Some of the pilgrims were cry- 

 ing loudly, weeping and beating their breasts for 

 their sins; others stood in silent reflection, with 

 tears of adoration in their eyes. But these peni- 

 tents were mostly foreigners. The natives of Hejaz, 

 and the Turkish soldiers, spent the time in con- 

 versing and joking, and imitating the waving of the 

 ihrams by violent gestures as if in mockery. Par- 

 ties of Arabs were quietly smoking their nargiles ; 

 while the frequenters of the cafes, some of which 

 were kept by public- women, by their loud laughter 

 and riotous conduct gave great annoyance to the 

 devotees in their neighbourhood. 



To every stranger, whether Mohammedan, Jew, or 

 Christian, such an assemblage must furnish a curi- 

 ous and impressive spectacle. " It was a sight," says 



