254 THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMAGE. 



by alleging, that although the liquid is very dirty 

 it has the benediction of God, and is besides much 

 perfumed with the essence of roses. The brooms of 

 palm-leaves, as well as the shreds of the cloth that 

 surrounds the door and bottom of the hall, are di- 

 vided among the pilgrims, and treasured up as re- 

 lics. Pieces both of the exterior and interior cover- 

 ings are constantly on sale at a shop before the Bab 

 es Salaam : the latter are most esteemed, and waist- 

 coats are made of it, which the Believers reckon the 

 safest armour they can wear. 



During the Ramadan, and especially on the last 

 day, the mosque is particularly brilliant. At the 

 celebration of the evening orisons, the whole square 

 an d colonnades are ill uminated by thousands o f lamps ; 

 and in addition to these, most of the hajjis have 

 each his own lantern standing before him. The 

 agreeable coolness of the place induces them to walk 

 about or sit conversing till after midnight. As the 

 legal period of abstinence now terminates, every 

 one brings in his handkerchief a few dates or grapes, 

 with bread and cheese, waiting in suspense until the 

 imam from the top of the Zemzem proclaims " Al- 

 lah Akbar," when they hasten to break their fast (the 

 lesser beiram) and drink a jar of the holy water. The 

 whole scene presents a curious mixture of the gay 

 and the grave. The mind is struck with some de- 

 gree of awe to witness so many thousands perform- 

 ing the towaf, or prostrating themselves on their car- 

 pets ; while the mingled voices of the metowafs, in- 

 tent on making themselves heard by those to whom 

 they recite their prayers, the loud conversation of 

 idle spectators, and the running and laughing of 

 boys, some of whom are diverting themselves with 



