COFFEE. 431 



side of the great mountains of Yemen. They abound in 

 the provinces of Heschid-u-Bekil, Kataba, and Jafa ; but 

 the climate about Udden, Kahhme, Kusma, Jebi, Jobla, 

 and Taas, is reckoned the most favourable, as the shrub on 

 these hills yields the berry in greater quantity and of 

 better flavour. The coffee produced in the neighbour- 

 hood of Sanaa is esteemed the best. Europeans are mis- 

 taken in supposing the tree should be planted in a dry 

 soil, and under a torrid sun. Though it is cultivated only 

 in the hilly regions, it requires both moisture and coolness ; 

 and it is for this reason that the Arabs plant other trees 

 in their coffee-grounds in order to afford it shade. In 

 times of intense heat the plantations are regularly ir- 

 rigated ; which is the more easily done, as they usually 

 stand upon terraces in the form of an amphitheatre, where 

 they are so densely crowded that the rays of the sun can 

 hardly penetrate among the branches. Most of them are 

 only moistened by the rain ; but others have the benefit of 

 large reservoirs (birkets'} upon the heights, from which 

 water is conveyed and sprinkled over the steep declivities. 

 The coffee-shrub is an evergreen ; its average height is 

 from twelve to fifteen feet ; the branches are elastic, the 

 bark rough and of a whitish colour ; the flowers resem- 

 ble those of the jasmine, and though bitter to the taste 

 they diffuse a strong balmy fragrance. At Bulgosa, Nie- 

 buhr found the trees in full bloom in the beginning of 

 March, and the whole atmosphere perfumed with their 

 delicious odour. When the blossom dies the fruit ap- 

 pears in its place, green at first, but red and resembling 

 a cherry when ripe ; in the centre of which lies the bean, 

 enclosed in a thin membrane, and easily separated into 

 two halves. There are two or three crops in the year ; 

 and it is quite common to see fruit and flowers on the 

 same tree ; but the first produce is always the best. May 

 is the proper harvest month ; the berries are shaken from 

 the branches on cloths spread underneath ; they are then 

 dried in the sun ; after which a heavy roller of wood or 

 stone is passed over them, to separate the bean from the 

 husk.* All the Arabs are extravagantly fond of coffee ; 



* In the West Indies this operation is performed by a mill com- 

 posed of two wooden rollers furnished with iron- plates eighteen 

 inches long and ten or twelve in diameter. These moveable rollers 

 are made to approach a third which is fixed, called chops ; between 

 these the fruit falls from a hopper, where it is stript of its first skin, 



