The Water Garden 121 



naturalistic pond in the centre of a smooth shaven lawn as to place 

 a classic Roman Nymphaeum in the midst of a wild garden. 



But what water garden was ever complete without its golden- 

 hearted, waxy-white and exquisitely tinted water lilies floating 

 on the surface among their disc-like leaves of bronze, copper, and 

 mahogany? To secure flowers of the hardy Nymphaeas the 

 same season, plant as early in the spring as the rhizomes show 

 signs of growth, or at any later time until September to establish 

 plants whose bloom is not expected until the following year. No 

 matter in what depth of water a plant has grown previously, its 

 hollow, rubber-like stems readily adapt themselves to new con- 

 ditions, and although submerged two feet when set out, it will send 

 up its leaves to the sun and air on the surface in an incredibly 

 short time. Where it is possible to control the supply of water, 

 increase the depth of the pond gradually and so keep it warm, 

 thereby insuring a more rapid growth for the plants. 



Lotuses (Nelumbo) should not be put in a small pond 

 where choice water lilies are growing unless the latter, at least, 

 are confined within tubs or partitions separating them from the 

 greedy lotus tubers ever pushing about through the soft rich muck 

 seeking what they may devour. The great round lotus leaves held 

 up high above the surface would as effectually keep off the sun 

 from the water lilies as so many big green umbrellas. It is some- 

 times necessary to anchor the roots of both water lilies and lotuses 

 with bricks or stones before growth starts, lest they rise from their 

 soft muddy bed and float away. 



In the Northern states lotus tubers are often started indoors, 

 and the tubs or hogsheads are dropped into the pond several weeks, 

 perhaps, after the more hardy Nymphaeas were planted out; but, 

 once established, lotuses withstand very severe winters, provided 



