THE STORY OF COSTUMES 



dress, since even the nineteenth century was guilty 

 of many follies in this direction, if not quite equalling 

 some of the preceding ones. But in many respects 

 the age of Queen Elizabeth and Shakespeare the 

 age of the "ruff" is quite the most remarkable. 

 And in this craze for ruff-wearing, as in many other 

 crazes in preceding centuries, the men were more at 

 fault than the women. 



About the middle of the sixteenth century French 

 gentlemen began to wear collarettes, or frilled ruffles, 

 and the fashion soon spread all over the Continent 

 and across the Channel to England. A few years 

 later and the wide ruff characteristic of the Elizabethan 

 period was in full sway. Henry III of France wore 

 ruffs something over a foot in depth, which contained 

 more than nineteen yards of cloth. 



In such a ruff Henry and his courtiers could move 

 their heads very little, and eating and drinking with- 

 out soiling it were difficult feats. Special table uten- 

 sils were necessary, such as long-handled spoons, 

 some particularly full-beruffed ladies using special 

 spoons two feet long for taking their soup. These 

 great ruffs were supported by small irons and wires, 

 holding the three, four, or five rows of lace in place, 

 the last row appearing above the top of the head. 



Later the use of starch was introduced and this 

 gave a fresh impetus to ruff-wearing. Where the cus- 

 tom originated cannot be definitely determined, but it 

 came into the household of Queen Bess through the 

 wife of her Dutch coachman, who understood the art 

 of starching. This thrifty housewife was soon starch- 

 VOL. a. 5 [ 65 ] 



