THE STORY OF COSTUMES 



in the third decade of a century, the industry gradually 

 increased, until by the time of the invention of the 

 practical sewing-machine in 1846, it had become quite 

 an important industry. But the great impetus to this 

 industry was given in that year by the introduction 

 of machines which were capable of performing the 

 work of three or four seamstresses. From that time 

 until the outbreak of the Civil War there was a steady 

 increase in the production of clothing, more particu- 

 larly that of cheaper grades. 



The greatest impetus to wholesale production was 

 that given by the Civil War itself, when the government 

 was forced suddenly to provide clothing for hundreds 

 of thousands of men. To meet this demand facto- 

 ries were established, improved machinery and methods 

 introduced, and as the demand lasted for a period of 

 about four years, the industry became an established 

 one, and ready-made clothing a staple product. 



Since the Civil War, however, the methods pre- 

 vailing in the manufacture of clothing have greatly 

 changed. Before that time it was mainly a household 

 industry, and there were comparatively few manu- 

 facturers having factories of their own. Most ready- 

 made clothing was made by journeyman tailors, 

 particularly after the introduction of the sewing- 

 machine. During the spring and fall seasons these 

 men worked for custom tailors, returning to the shops 

 of the manufacturers for work between seasons. Most 

 of these tailors at that time were English, Scotch, or 

 American, and all were skilled workmen capable of 

 turning out an entire garment. A little later the Irish 



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