INGENUITY AND LUXURY 



followed by a machine which automatically drove the 

 nails, the heels having previously been put in place 

 and held by guides on the machine. Other improve- 

 ments in heeling -machines followed with considerable 

 rapidity, and a machine came into use shortly after- 

 ward which not only nailed the heel but was also pro- 

 vided with a hand-trimmer, which the operator swung 

 round the heel immediately after nailing. From these 

 have been evolved the heeling-machines in use at the 

 present time. 



"Notable improvements had during this time been 

 made in the Goodyear system, and a machine was 

 made for the sewing of welts which was the foundation 

 of the Goodyear machine now so universally used. 

 This machine sewed from the channel of the in-sole 

 through upper and welt, uniting all three, and was a 

 machine of the chain-stitch type which left the loop 

 on the outside of the welt. This machine was closely 

 followed by the introduction of one which stitched the 

 out-sole, uniting it to the welt by a stitch made from 

 the channel in the out-sole, through out-sole and welt. 

 This machine afterward became famous as the Good- 

 year 'rapid out-sole lock-stitch machine.' The great 

 demand that existed for shoes of this type made it 

 necessary that accessory machines should be invented, 

 and those which prepared the in-sole, skived the welt, 

 trimmed the in-sole, rounded and channeled the out- 

 sole, as well as a machine which automatically rolled 

 or leveled the shoe, and the stitch-separating machine 

 were soon produced. These formed the Goodyear 

 welt system which has been the subject of constant 



