INGENUITY AND LUXURY 



ments adopted by manufacturers. In the early '50*5 

 the methods in last- and pattern-making were very 

 crude, although some of the boots and shoes made in 

 those days were very fine in workmanship, and the 

 amount paid to a workman for simply putting on the 

 buttons, which was done by hand, would, at the present 

 time, purchase a good pair of shoes. Lasts were then 

 made only in whole sizes, such a thing as half sizes 

 being unheard of, and were of curious shapes; first, 

 they would have very broad toes, then would go to 

 the other extreme and run out so thin at the end that 

 it was necessary to iron-plate them. There were only 

 two or three styles and widths, and one pattern would 

 fit them all. Many of the women's lasts were made 

 straight. Very little attention was given to the saving 

 of stock in those days, and in the making of patterns 

 one had only to get them large enough. At the present 

 day the saving of stock in the making of patterns is 

 of the greatest importance. The measurements must 

 be absolutely retained. The character and style must 

 be kept up; and the lines, proportions, and graceful 

 curves must receive the most careful attention in all 

 their details, as these are necessary to make up the 

 symmetrical whole. The early method of producing 

 patterns was largely by guess, and some, it is said, 

 still cling to the old way. At one time what was called 

 the English system was considerably used, the method 

 being to take a piece of upper leather, wet and crimp 

 it over the last, and let it dry. This gave the form of 

 the last, and then the pattern was cut from stiff paper, 

 allowing for laps, seams, and folds. This method 



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