INGENUITY AND LUXURY 



the implements and methods used by the diamond- 

 cutters to-day are practically identical with those 

 employed more than a century ago. 



It requires something more than the mere mechani- 

 cal skill of being able to cut a stone into mathematically 

 accurate surfaces to be a successful gem-cutter. In- 

 deed, this particular mechanical part of the art, al- 

 though essential, is by no means the most important. 

 Every gem is an individual study to the lapidary, a 

 problem of how to produce the maximum brilliancy 

 with the minimum loss of weight. The tone or color, 

 the shape, quality, diaphaneity, the presence of flaws- 

 all have to be taken into account, the complicated men- 

 tal equipment of the expert gem-cutter contrasting 

 sharply with the simple mechanical equipment needed 

 for the actual process of cutting. 



Diamond-cutting, which differs from the cutting of 

 all other gems, is described by the master-craftsman, 

 Leopold Claremont, as follows: 



"The process consists of three different operations: 

 'bruting,' l polishing,' and ' cleaving/ 



"The bruting of diamonds consists in rubbing 

 two diamonds together in such a way that, by continual 

 friction, each can be made to assume the desired shape. 

 Each diamond is cemented upon the end of a stick 

 or holder about a foot long, and the operator firmly 

 holds one end of each stick in either hand. The 

 stones are then rubbed or pressed one against another 

 over a wooden trough containing a very fine metal 

 sieve, into which fall the particles of diamond dust 

 rubbed from the stones. In order to obtain a sufficient 



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