TASTE, AS APPLIED TO FKTJITS. 235 



means of gratifying the most refined percep- 

 tions. Our taste for grapes really began in the 

 woods, and it is surprising how many still seek 

 its gratification there, unsatisfying as it must 

 be, while the good is so plainly in sight. But a 

 movement has already begun; the masses are 

 turning their faces to tha light ; numbers have 

 already reached the outskirts of the woods, and 

 some may be seen wending their way up the 

 fair hill of culture, rosy with the excitement of 

 their new-found pleasure. This must go on till 

 the great body of the people are able, not only 

 to distinguish between a good grape or a good 

 wine and a poor one, but also to appreciate in 

 good grapes and wine those nice shades and 

 degrees of flavor which give a distinctive char- 

 acter to our best grapes and wines, and from 

 which is derived the chief zest of our enjoy- 

 ment. Then, and not till then, shall we be 

 able to put a just value upon grapes as a nour- 

 ishing food, and wine as a refreshing drink. 



